mchan68

Well, I just ran it outside with the EBP tube disconnected at the EBP end, and I feel pressure exiting the tube when the engine is revved up. It seems as though EBP is not increasing to the expected value is what I surmise to be why VGT duty cycle remains locked solid at 85% at idle (650 RPMs). What is EBP supposed to increase to when the engine starts? I'm getting old. It should increase to at least high 15s or low 16s correct? This thing remains at about 14.2 psi, so I'm comfortable to say that the PCM is seeing as good as NO INCREASE in EBP is why it's doing what it's doing. The question I have is, have any of you guys seen an EBP cause this issue before, even though it reads where it should at KOEO? The last time I had an '04 do this, was one that the owner replaced the T-Stat on himself, and spilled coolant all over the EBP sensor. But on that particular truck, the EBP reading was WAY OFF. Replace the sensor and that fixed it. Again, this thing only sets a HARD P0299 by itself when I attempt a KOER self-test. No P0470, no P2262 or P2263 or other DTCs for that matter.

Furthermore, I even removed the EBP and verified the tube not blocked up as well as the MAP sensor hose. I should also point out that this truck has the CAT and EGR throttle plate removed.

2004 Late-build Excursion in for the usual trifecta with head studs to boot. Original complaint of coolant venting from degas bottle and lack of power. BEFORE the repair, VGT duty remains steady at 84.99% at idle, and won't get out of its own way until about 2800 to 3000 RPMs. After head studs, EGR & oil cooler replacement, along with turbo service and unison ring replacement, SAME FUCKING THING!!! The unison ring was pretty stiff to remove from the housing, but cleaned up and went back together with no issues at all. BARO at KOEO is indicating 13.93 psi (a little low?), MAP 14.2 psi at KOEO and EBP 14.1 psi at KOEO. At KOER, MAP fluctuates between 13.96 to 14.02 while EBP increases to about 15. This truck just got new hot side rubber boots (as per customer request). When driving on the highway, just above 2800 RPMs MGP peaks out at about 26 psi (which I consider normal), but on the low end it struggles to accelerate. When active commanded to 1200 RPMs, VGT duty cycle stays steady at 84.99% with ZERO change in MGP. I tried unplugging EBP and driving it. Somewhat improved with EBP unplugged but not 100%. Drove home. Swapped a VGT from a turbo I had laying around. No change. Getting back to the basics. A P0299 lists possible causes as VGT and EBP. Where else do I go next? MAP sensor?

2005 E-450 with all of 45,000 original kms. (out of warranty by time CHA-CHING!!!) on the clock getting a set of coolers. In my next bay, a 2009 MKS for a set of phasers. Depending on how the week progresses, I may have a 2004 Excursion 6.0L coming in that the owner wants me to "bullet proof" for him as an SJ .......

Well folks. Here's what adding CETANE BOOSTER to the DEF tank will do to the appearance of the DEF itself: For future reference, here's a list of part numbers for the next dumb ass that makes this $5000 mistake: BC3Z-5J228-C (Tank & Pump Assembly) BC3Z-5J232-A (Filler Tube Assembly) BC3Z-5J249-V (Line Assembly) AL3Z-5J281-A (Injector) BC3Z-9D378-F (NOx Sensor) Bear in mind the above list of parts applies to a pickup application, so if you get cab & chassis truck coming in, the list will likely differ.

Back to the days of the 06E17 fiasco. Why would you even ask if WE are the criminals? WE are only doing what FORD tells us to do. If the customers perceive US as th criminals, oh well I guess you can't fix stupid ......

.....and WHO'S pocket is this coming out of? NOT mine!!!!

CHA-CHING!!!! I CHARGE FOR STUPIDITY!!!

Can you PM me everything needed to do the swap? I have a co-worker with a '97 'Ploder who seems to be hot and horny about doing such a swap to his.

I agree. But another mistake amongst customers is failure to RTFOM, which if I recall correctly was one of the items discussed in the 6.7L class. BTW, the truck in question is a pickup application, using the DOC/SCR/DPF setup. Does that mean the DPF will require replacement too? I don't feel like telling the customer he needs to pony up another $4Gs on top of the parts list so far.

Cardboard.

Got one here with only 5989 kms. on the ticker. Came in with a "Check Engine" light on. IDS test. P20E8 Reductant Pressure Too Low. Attempt PPT RK dosing test. The pump won't even pump. I notice in the passenger front seat a couple empty jugs of Diesel Kleen CETANE BOOSTER. The story goes, "I was running low, so I went to Canadian Tire to get some ....". So guys, does anyone have a parts list made up, of everything needed to be replaced in the SCR system? What do you guys charge for a mistake like this? TIA.

I don't know if I would say that Keith. Have you priced out some FICM harnesses lately?

Really? You mean the P012F code that is exclusive to 2005 and newer models? And you say it will set at 10*F instead 15*F? Where did you obtain this information from?

On the flip side, how times have you guys run this test, only to return a PASS result, but still have issues with the unison ring or turbo itself?

Did you replace the whole oil cooler or just the kit?

Agreed. And it seems only logical that an engine cranking without any compression (or appearing to sound like it) and then "fixing itself" afterwards could only be caused by an exhaust or intake restriction, but the fact that the ICP PIDs went wonky like that when it happened is what had me scratching my head. Does anyone know if the EGR throttle plate and the ICP sensor circuit are tied together in any way? It just seems funny that unplugging the ICP sensor was what enabled me to restart the engine, and then plugging it in after the engine was started, saw no reaction on the part of the engine.

Okay guys, I need your input on this one. I think by now I consider myself pretty good at fixing most 6.0L issues but this particular one has me scratching my head so here it goes. Vehicle is a late-build 2004 F-450 Dump Box with 115,000 kms. This thing came towed in because it crapped out on the owner and unable to restart the engine. The story goes, when he tried to restart the engine "it sounded funny". The next day, after it sat on our lot, when the owner came in to retrieve some things from it, it started up no problem. When I got to it, the only DTCs set are P0528 and P0678 (the fan clutch is a little lazy), but I doubt these have anything remotely to do with the issue. So, off I go on a rodeo with it (with IDS hooked up along with my favourite 6.0L PIDs up). Truck drives fine with lots of power (other than EOT being higher than it should be) up until I get it back onto dealer property, the thing stalls. When I attempt to restart the engine, it sputters farts and sneezes and sounds like the engine has no compression cranking at about 240 RPM (which explains his "it sounded funny" description). As I'm doing this, the only PIDs that seem wonky are ICP_DES indicate 0psi, while ICP psi stays frozen at 689 psi, ICP volts are at 0.89 volts and IPR duty cycle dips to 13.97% (lower than the default 14.84% KOEO duty cycle). FICM_SYNC and SYNC remain at YES, FICM voltages are where they need to be, and the fuel pump is humming away. Remember, the above PIDs are what I saw while attempting to restart the engine. Unplug the ICP sensor and the truck fires back up as normal (with the PID indicating the default 870 psi momentarily and then returning back to the normal 580 psi at idle within seconds). Here's a little history of this truck. This truck has always been serviced at my dealer (with the exception of a head gasket job done at an indy shop back in Dec. of 2009 at 96,000 kms.) and the customer is a money spender. In the last couple of years, it has had the y-pipe and FICM replaced, an ICP sensor just recently (to address an intermittent surging issue), a fuel pump (at the customer's request), along with the updated fuel pressure regulator spring. Looking through the invoice the customer gave us, it looks as though the indy shop replaced the EGR cooler (but no oil cooler which likely explains the high EOT temps). As it now stands, I know it needs an oil cooler and a fan clutch, but I would like to pinpoint what's issue described above before proceeding further. It is also venting coolant big time (despite having a head gasket job done 20,000 kms. ago). Not that it really matters, but does anyone recognize part number HS54450 (head gasket set)? Both the advisor and the owner of the truck want me to throw an FQR engine in it, but I don't feel right doing this. Anyone else have any ideas?

VERY well put.

I have been noticing this too for all these years on all 7.3L PIDs, but never actually read anything about it, or noticed anyone ever asking about it, up until I read this thread. So, if not even Bruce knows what its purpose is, no one else likely will.

Drain the tank. Refill FULL with fresh diesel along with additives (Cetane Booster and Anti-Gel). Change the fuel filter and take it for a few WOT blasts. EBP psi does look a little lowish in my opinion.