mchan68

If it passes the injector buzz test with no codes, but you hear no clicking from some or all injector(s), the injector(s) are the cause of your no-start. I know it sounds stupid, but I got bit by this very scenario ONCE.

Keith, you think that's outrageous. How about $277.00?. And I thought we were supposed to be dollar for dollar between US and CDN.

What is exactly is the point to this question? Are you thinking that the price of the unison ring is a little astronomical, perhaps? If so, I couldn't agree more.

Okay, I just priced out both parts. FICM 4C3Z-12B599-ABRM Cost: $482.70 List: $583.47 FICM Half Shell 4C3Z-12B599-BARM Cost: $493.35 List: $836.19 WTF? So, a HALF FICM costs almost DOUBLE the price?!!!!

Just curious. What is involved with getting medium duty truck software into our shop? It seems my SM doesn't like having to turn away LCF trucks that roll into our store with driveability issues. More importantly, what is the cost involved? THAT, I think will be the determining factor as to whether or not he will rethink the worthiness of us servicing the very few of them that pass through our store.

I said it once before, and I say it again. Jim, you do have a way with words sometimes that amaze me. That said, it's been a LONG time that I've had the pleasure (or DISpleasure?) of R & R'ing an oil pan on a 7.3L. And I'm not shy about admitting it. I don't feel comfortable about my ability to take this shortcut, on this particular repair. Not when what is at stake, is as mentioned in the first paragraph.

THAT, is a test that was suggested by Hotline for me to check on one particular truck that I won't soon forget. The gasser tune-down guys in the shop weren't happy with me running that test.

Guilty.

I actually have one in my bay right now as I post this. An out-of-warranty tow truck with a failed EGT_13 and a cracked EDOC up-pipe. Information from the owner is, the cat has been hollowed out. I guess that might explain the frequent regen when I drove the vehicle home and back to work. Bruce, is it safe to say that hollowing out a cat on a 6.4L will eventually lead to premature DPF failure?

Well, it appears our local coffee truck now needs a tank too, due to the blood trail of fuel its leaving in its path. What was the part number for yours, Keith? Was it 6C3Z-9002-F?

Well, it was decided to have the alternator sent out to our local rebuilder. I just got a call from him, advising of an issue with the clutch pulley. Is this an issue you came across as well?

Exactly as he stated. I can only add that front ABS wheel speed exciter rings like to crack on these, but not really a big deal to repair. Like already posted, the '08s like to leak the trans fluid coolers which is now already a recall (and should have been much sooner IMO). '09 and later, they moved the trans fluid leaks to the case half/axle seals. There is now also a recall for '09 and later, regarding calibration for the TCM and overhaul if necessary as well. Also like already posted above, if you get an '08 or older model year, get rid of the crappy Continental tires. I always push for the Michelins that are on '09 and up models, even on the older Escapes.

Thanks. I believe two people provided me with this information already. This is why I hate having to wrench on this piece of turd. And yes, it does appear to be one of those alternators with a clutch on the end. Why? You are familiar with them? This thing has a 2.4L "DuraTorq" four banger turbo diesel that has the smallest turbo I have ever seen, in case you didn't know already.

Yes Jim. How'd you figure that out?

I wasn't sure where to post this, so I thought I'd revive an old thread. I got a tow truck darkening my doorstep right now with P0672, P0674, P0676, P0678, P0297, P200E and P242E. The P06XX codes are on-demand. This thing has a cracked right side EDOC up-pipe which we know is pretty common on these. The complaint is the "PULL OVER SAFELY NOW" idiot message appearing on the message center and not being able to re-start (with the key). I realize it's a no-brainer that an EGT_13 will cause a no-crank/no-start. But by the time it arrives, it starts and runs. Monitored EGT_11, EGT_12 and EGT_13 volts and *F PIDs. All are within 0.3 to 4.6 volts at KOEO. Wiggle tested per PC/ED. Last time it was in, I sent him on his merry way. Now it's back and they want to spend $$$ to fix. I am reluctant to call an EGT_13 even though I know it's common, just by virtue of the fact that readings are within specs at this time. Information from the owner is that the DOC has been hollowed out. Just wondering if THAT can cause those DTCs to set. Vehicle is out of warranty. Checked OASIS on it. This thing has had several major repairs, including repairs that required the engine to be R & R'd twice at many dealers. Also several CuDL reports. The GP circuit and cracked EDOC pipe he doesn't give a shit about, so I guess the P200E and P242E is what I should focus on. I have already quoted a DPF and gasket in case I am unsuccessful in removing EGT_13 without damage (but not before I put a concerted effort into removing it). I just want to make sure there isn't anything I'm missing, so I don't end up inheritting a "wedding ring" given that it's RETAIL. Thanks guys.

Does anyone know of any place where I can obtain an alternator for a 2004 London Taxi Cab in a reasonable amount of time? Please post the price as well. Thanks in advance. The VIN for the said vehicle is SCRD16N84C155799 if it matters.

Aren't MOST Ford TSBs (To Save our Butts)?

How about the Three Stooges and The Little Rascals?

Don't be insulted. After reading, and re-reading this entire thread, I don't think I read anywhere where someone suggested this so I will. Does the fan clutch work? Did this vehicle set the P0528 and/or P0480 DTCs? I've had more than my share of E-Series trucks where the fan clutch was either left unplugged or inoperative, causing the puking issues.

Brad, I must've looked through this thread about four times before I decided chime in. First off, yes I agree F-150 cabs are LOTS easier to remove than Super Duty cabs (I've removed more of them than Super Duty cabs), simply by virtue of the fact that NOTHING on the inside of the cab needs to be touched, not to mention that nothing on the hydraulics end of the business needs to be disconnected as far as the braking system goes, and lastly, the cab fasteners actually do come out without a fight. Some members here, probably think I like to remove the cab on just about everything I wrench on which is bullshit. I only remove cabs (or bodies) on trucks that I'm removing either the cylinder head(s) or engine(s), unless it's a V6. Now that we have that out of the way, come to think of it, yes I vaguely remember having a front cover off a 5.4L or 4.6L that I ran into this very issue before. The only thing that I'm scratching my head about, is why or how that threaded bolt would actually protrude through the front cover on the right side, exposing it to crankcase oil. 'Cause if this were the case, wouldn't there be oil coming out of the hole, when that idler is removed? Did you manage to actually break the front cover by FORCING the longer bolt in (with an air ratchet as Jim suggests)?The last one I had apart, I vaguely recall running out of threads in the front cover before I caught on that the two idler pulley bolts were in fact different lengths. I believe it was even on the 5.4L 3V engine that I wrenched on for a set of phasers (which made me think of your posting about the hack that ground away the front cover to access one of the bolts awhile back). Hey, it happens to the best of us. I'm sure you are well aware of the 4.0L SOHC engines and their timing procedure that requires holding tools. The first one I had apart, I bent valves on it. From then on, on every 4.0L SOHC I've wrenched on, I turn the engine over two revolutions by hand upon assembly, before I reach for the key. So what is the outcome of this mess, if you don't mind sharing?

I couldn't agree more. Growing up as an "only child" and witnessing my mother get beaten up, and being beaten myself by a father who was serious control issues, I can relate.

This vehicle has an aftermarket radio, but yes the radio delays as well as the fuel and voltage gauges. Thanks for the info, I will pass it on to the owner.

Yes, you guys beat me to it. 6C3Z-6C640-AA is the correct part number you seek, Aaron. I have our parts department keeping one in stock.

What about ones equipped with dual alternators and/or aftermarket add-on "bullshit A/C" compressors?