mchan68

Well, as of today, with all the reading through the posts about all the claims getting bounced because we are being accused of "over repairing", my question is, "Is Ford paying or NOT?!!!" If I recall correctly, not too long ago, Ford introduced an EXTENDED warranty package called, "Dieselcare" which is/was supposed to enable the customer to extend the warranty to 200,000 kms. for about $1,800. Now, we're told that Ford is NOT paying, so what gives? I'm a little confused here. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif

Well guys, I got my first '06 Focus that came in on the hook today by a woman who filled up with diesel. It took her 'till she arrived home to realize her error. My call on this, is to drain and clean the tank, replace the pump and filter. FILL with fresh gasoline and run the engine. I'm holding off on replacing the injectors until I see this thing run. Am I on the right track?

What is your ICP volts at KOEO? Should be around 0.2 volts. How about your FICM voltage PIDs? Did you check for Vbatt at the FICM relay? Check for a harness rub through at the top of the shock on the driver side. HTH

Well guys, I got one that came in on the hook late this afternoon with an oil leak issue. This one is LITERALLY soaked in oil EVERYWHERE. One of the SA came and asked me to take a quick look at it (I'm still busy dealing with my other vehicle that needs a "shopping list") to get a heads up. Pulled the doghouse cover off, and found everything including the inside of the doghouse cover, the y-pipe etc. soaked in oil. Didn't think I was going to be able to pinpoint the leak due to oil being everywhere. Just for shits and giggles, I decided to try to fire this thing up. Sure enough, as soon as the engine fired up, oil came oozing out the top of the high pressure oil pump itself, so I shut it off immediately. This is a wierd one. Anyone else ever see a failure like this before? Leaking out at the high rate that it was, I'm surprised oil level didn't decrease enough to cause a no-start, YET.

I have an '06 F-series apart that some hack at another dealer snapped off both bolts for the lower fan stator supports. I believe the basic for the spacers is 8B669 or something like that, but I can't seem to find the number for the bolts since they are obviously missing in action.

At KOEO MAP/BARO/EBP are all dead on @ 14.1 and change psi. I revved the snot out of this engine, while monitoring ECT/EOT and EOT never exceeded 210 F, and ECT hovered at around 199ish which doesn't seem like it's overheating, which also explains why the oil cooler wasn't replaced at the other dealer. Just for kicks, I reran IDS/EGR and both times it flagged MAP and EBP_A high at around 20psi and high 30s to 40ish psi respectively. Again KOEO/KOER tests pass. Appears to run very smooth so I doubt injector(s) are the issue here. MFDES 0.11 @ idle.

I have an '06 "walk-in" that appears to have white smoke issues that no one else has been able to fix. Unit has 135,000 kms. This unit is also a manual transmission if that matters. Was in at another dealer only two weeks ago to have EGR valve, EGR cooler and intake manifold replaced. OASIS check reveals that thing has been "all over the map" with a turbo replaced at some point, some kind of 6608 gasket for an external oil leak, plus some other miscellaneous work. KOEO/KOER tests all pass. Did notice turbo to be quite noisy. Makes a "woo woo" or humming noise consistent with turbo speed. IDS/EGR test flags MAP in the red at 20 and change PSI on test #4 or #5, also flags EBP_A high at 40 and change PSI. Did notice evidence of coolant leak from heater hose to metal tube connection just below alternator. Clamp and hose appear okay. Monitoring ECT/EOT correlation at operating temperature the difference never exceeds 10 F. When I opened the coolant degas bottle, it literally shot right up and smacked the hood! Methinks cracked head(s) as an educated guess. Didn't really dig too deep into it. Only came in just as I was about ready to head home for the day. Just looking for some heads up before I dig into it tomorrow first thing in the morning. What say you?

Just curious, how do you separate the body from the box on cutaways? What actually happens when all fasteners are removed, including the fasteners that secure the cab to the box? Will it actually separate without damage to either, or is there further work needed to break the seal between the two?

Yes, I saw that too while I was glancing over the technical specs. I guess that fuel is needed for that 10.0:1 compression 3-banger in order to achieve that whopping 70hp /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif With the higher cost of high test fuel, combined with the not so cheap price of the car itself, the not so outstanding fuel consumption, to me equals a NOT SO smart car /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

That's exactly where I said it would be in my first post. Glad you found your problem.

You'll have to air test the high pressure oil system for air leaks. With that kind of ICP reading with the engine warm, I'm guessing it would be the dummy rail lower o-ring(s). An STC fitting failure usually gives you a much lower reading. Read TSB 08-09-09.

Just curious, would it be of any benefit to install the reinforcement brace with the new fitting, or would it just seem silly and redundant?

Not to stray too far off topic, but I just recently had a high mileage Focus (185,000 kms. to be exact) coming in on the hook with a busted timing belt. It was a 2.0L Zetec. There was NO evidence of neglect to this vehicle. There was NO oil contamination, nor did the timing belt idler or tensioner pullies fail, only the belt itself had frayed. IIRC doesn't Ford recommend a 200,000 km interval for timing belt replacement (which to me personally, is WAY too long)? Yet, on a 1998 Escort ZX2 or Contour/Mystique equipped with the SAME engine, and the SAME timing belt, the recommended replacement interval is only 100,000 kms. (which is a little more in line), if I'm not mistaken? For this reason, I generally have very little faith in Ford's recommended service guidelines.

I just got finished doing one yesterday on an F-550 that ended up needing a branch tube as well, due to being pushed so far back, causing damage to the rear cover. Like Alex, mine also needed the D-ring on the left side bank replaced as well. I too, didn't bother with the plastic "alignment tools". Once installed, it seems impossible to access the jam nut with any tool though. Just curious, 080909E and F seems a little confusing. I hope there's no overlap.

Well, Jim after the "repair" the car never acted up again. I wasn't the one who "repaired" it. Apparently, the servicing tech "relocated" the ground on the left side of the vehicle near the battery. Apparently this recall was already carried out years ago. I was only instructed to drive the vehicle home and to work the next day. This kinda reminds me of the Chrysler days when the 2000 model years Neons were just released. Many had the ground bolts atop the headlight assemblies overtightened from the factory and breaking. On the one side, it would cause the headlight and signal light to not work. On the other side, it would cause the fuel pump not to run, causing a no-start. Amazing how important these grounds are.

Well, did you monitor ICP pressure while cranking? Is ICP volts 0.2 at KOEO? Does ICP volt climb to 0.8 volts/500 psi while cranking? How are the rest of the PIDs? What were the DTCs retrieved? Have there been any recent past repairs showing up in OASIS? Did you verify good fuel pressure/quality?

Are you kidding me? I actually LOVE it when I get an '05 and up 6.0L coming in on the hook for a no-start. Those are actually gravy for me now. OH MY GOD, what am I saying? Did I just say I acually LOVE working on a 6.0L? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif Something must be wrong with me!!! Now watch some other dickhead post on the message board that ha can bang these repairs off in the half the time and good old Ford god cut the times on us. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif

Interesting that you should mention that. Being a 2000 model year, wasn't there a safety recall a few years ago that had us "modify" the battery positive and negative cables? I'm beginning to wonder if this could be a result of a poorly carried out repair? Well, I was asked to drive this vehicle home again tonight. So far, it hasn't acted up YET.

I've been requested by our SM to drive this vehicle home, due to some really things happening. Vehicle in question is owned by an elderly lady who is not very "car smart" as described by the SA. Upon driving on my way home from work, the backlighting on the odometer display and radio will flicker, as will the temp and fuel gauges. There is also loud static coming from the speaker as this occurs. Entering the highway, during steady cruise, this "flickering" persists with the speedo dropping down to zero at one point, with other symptoms coming. The transmission will pop out of gear and the MIL and door ajar warnings will light up for a second or two. On quite a few occasions the transmission will pop out of gear and randomly re-engage extremely harshly, a couple of times accompanied by the MIL light lighting up, and then the door ajar light. Stopped off at Burger King for a bite to eat. Make my way home and the symptoms never reoccured. Vehicle has 54,000 kms. (or 30,000 miles for you 'mericans), all maintenance kept up, and in very good condition. Unit is as described in post subject, is a station wagon with base instrumentation (no tach) if it matters. The last repair carried out for this same symptom was when the last tech cleaned up the ground wire next to the battery on the body. Obviously it's going to be something loose or shorting out, or something really stupid. Anyone else ever come across something like this in a Focus? Thanks in advance.

I just tried searching for the TSB. It doesn't exist yet. Is there a part number or labour op info for this?

One of my ex-coworkers described this type of mentality being used at another dealer close to where I live, "PARTS 'TILL IT STARTS" /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

The solution is simple to your particular case. If they don't want to do anything that "costs money", DON'T LOOK AT IT. I've been bitten that way many times. If these are ambulances, one would think they are required to pass some type of safety inspection in order to remain in service. If the particular unit in question requires that much work, take the vehicle number down and report it to your local department of transport. Wait a minute, aren't branches of the government? On second thought forget that idea. I guess it would be conflict of interest if your department of transport were to pull the vehicle from service. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Keith, wasn't there a recent post where someone had replaced a pump on an '03-'04 engine that where the o-ring at pump supply inlet had torn? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

That's a very good point. You've just also reminded me of a situation where I was "checking" to see if a part was covered under ESP by running the basic part number through OASIS, and sure enough it wasn't. The basic part number I entered was one for a parts kit in a TSB. It was at that time that I was informed that I couldn't claim a TSB labour op through an ESP claim. Yet when all the basic part numbers for the individual parts in the kit were entered, it turned out that they WERE covered. The point I'm getting at, is that all of the individual parts ordered separately came out to be significantly more expensive than it would've, had it been ordered as a kit.

Yes, in ALL repairs performed I "write my story" on the hard copy outlining the three CCCs.