DieselD

Thats not suprising....love how the first person to blame isnt himself

I dont have access to those military tugs now that I am away from the dealer. I might be able to grease a couple of my old coworkers to get me a vin at least. Tear tag would have to wait until one of those things rolled through the shop which is not very often. I am also curious if I could buy those particular parts as well however aftermarket might be alot easier, cheaper and quicker in the end

being it is a mustang it is quite possible you have a aftermarket performance PCM or even a factory one sent out to be modified. Does it have the typical PCM partnumbers, tear tags etc? You mentioned it has a 4900 written on it with a sharpie which isnt typical of a OEM pcm. Its possible I would think if its not a factory pcm or one that is internally modified the IDS isnt able to over write it. You say a couple intake bolts where loose and your timing looks to be setup for a supercharger. Sounds like the previous owner yanked off the supercharger before selling it and left the rest of the car alone. That would support the idea of a non ford pcm being used as well and could explain all your odd readings

correction.....I was informed this was a 2008 and in fact its a 11/09 built via the actual vin tag. Calibration level would be as it was from new still and would have never been updated.

This is a particular rare case for me. I typically do not support the removal of anything emissions related for the obvious reasons we have all delt with in the past(warranty, EPA yada yada yada). I have a customer with a 2008 F350 that is a service vehicle for the airport tram system. Its modified to be driven on the tracks and can not be removed from them unless being lifted straight up in the air thus why it cant get to a shop for normal service or repairs. The vehicle has never even been registered, governed at 10mph and doesn't even have a steering wheel. As you can expect its having regen issues, looking at the tailpipe its full of soot which we all know what that means. This is probably the cause of the tailpipe being cut and moved to just behind the dpf and it not being capable of actually doing a regen(remember never been programed so no low speed regen). We are also rebuilding/modifying the over engineered axle/rail system they have. Normally I would rather avoid what most likely will be a headache however this has the potential to be a very lucrative venture for us which is why Im willing to take it on. I need to put together a kit to remove the DPF,DOC, both EGR coolers and valve. The hardparts seem to be easier to find then the programming. Seems there are alot less options out there for programming now that the EPA has been pee pee spanking those who use these items on the road. I do not need added power and actually need to make sure its still governed at 10mph so all I need is a calibration to not look for the emissions components. Any recommendations for company's that offer this or willing to do a custom program?

Ah the good ol "recall tape" This stuff rock and I had quite the stash of it. I still have several rolls but I am very selective where I use it anymore. I have tried to find it elsewhere a couple years ago and wasn't successful. I would be interested in finding the supplier for it as I would buy a bunch more

according to jasper their remans are the best and have all the best updates! I just had a rep tell me the other day they are doing 6.7 remans now and they have figured out all the issues and problems with the valves etc He had fancy videos on his ipad that proved it

I just had a overfilled crankcase on one of my 6.4s here. It never set a code and I know its on the latest calibration level. I caught it based on engine vibration I felt during a roadtest.

I just saw a flyer from a local "cheap" parts house guy that cold called on my shop. Not wanting to be a dick I half heartily flipped through the flyer while he was giving his speech. I came across the Dorman section and it looks like they are getting their hands in all kinds of 6.0 parts. Oil coolers, EGR coolers etc. They even had a FICM halfshell listed! The prices where not that far off what ford parts are. Trying not to laugh I tossed the flyer in the trash and told the guy to leave as I would never be buying the crap they had to sell.

OTC is what I own. cheap and works. Think I even picked mine up from amazon just make sure you have a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. There is no need to run a 3/4 drive for this application. Torque is pretty light on these

Good for you remaining positive Jim, Most people in your situation get a real bad attitude real quick.... Is your wonderful universal health care something we get to look forward here in the states? We seem to be working our way into that mess a little bit each year

Uhaul is a big gasser fan too and it wouldn't surprise me if they had a bug in someones ear at ford. I remember seeing a cobbled together F650 proloader with a v10 in it years ago. They claimed it was something they converted themselves to test how well it could hold up to their demands.

saw this the other day too. Not sure Im too found of the goofy body styling. They are definitely due for a update tho, Back are those ugly ass 2008-2010 headlights tho! Im happy about the powerstroke coming back to them as long as they let the IDS do the talking and not that pos MD-software. One diagnostic platform is the ticket! That is probably my biggest gripe about the current medium duty as I have a hard time getting them serviced. Need to take it to 3 different places to get something done to the stupid thing. the 6.7 cummins run well if they are the correct power level. There are several ways to build a 750 and if your buying used or have a sales guy that doesnt know his shit you can get a dog. Our crane trucks run well but they have the higher hp level engine and big boy allison in them

2015 Superduty numbers are out finally. Bumping power up to 440hp and 860ft tq

10w30 and 15w40 depending on the truck, I typically follow the severe duty schedules for most of our vehicles

A coworker ran is 2004 to 215k miles before it was replaced and even then it was only replaced because the oil cooler popped

Every situation is different and one more method in your toolbox can save your butt on getting a bolt out. I have done the welding method before and it works well but I wouldn't call it the end all be all method. I can remember several times I have gone to grab the welder and it's in use, out of wire or gas etc. then it's on to plan B to get the job done.

Drilling is obviously not the only method of getting a broken bolt out of the hole. I believe each situation dictates which method of attack you choose. This is just one more tool that can save your butt when you have to drill.

Also let me know if you guys want to get on board on getting one. I can get ahold of them directly as well and let them know your coming....

That is them, They have been doing these for quite some time but have recently started pushing them harder. I remember seeing the prototypes and thinking about how good of a idea it was. Being able to square up the hole with the head on the vehicle was almost impossible. I have had my setup for a while but have only recently used it. I plan to pick up the other templates for other engines soon. I know I have a 5.4 with a broken stud out there I need to fix. Fan-freakin-tastic! I had the idea for this years ago but no way to make one. Drilling out broken bolts SQUARELY is sometimes the key to success especially if it's in an aluminum head or you need to rethread the hole. They 3 included sizes of guides pretty much nail getting 90% of the bolt out. You can easily break out the remaining section of threads or use a easy out to get the rest. In most cases it saves you from having to actually rethread the hole Thats the other cool thing about these. Once you get the full kit all you need is the template for other engines. I think the templates where like 50-60bucks ea

Speaking of drilling out broken exhaust studs. A coworkers brother in laws brother makes these cool little jigs to help. You still have to remove the exhaust manifold obviously but this thing makes drilling out the bolts easier. Simply bolt it onto the head and use the increasing size drill guides to step on your bit size. They have different mounting brackets for pretty much all ford engines. Dont always need it but when you do it will save you some headache

Brad hit the nail on the head. Location dictates everything when it comes to pay. When I was at the dealer I was getting $29 per flat rate hour however that was high for our area. Our market in AZ dictates anywhere between 25-29hr for a GOOD SM tech. Anymore SM means nothing with the amount of "test takers" we have out there. I remember after completing ASSET in 2002 I refused to finish taking the couple of tests I needed to complete my SM certification because I beleived I was not worthy of that title yet. Just because I went to school for 2years and earned my tenure along with 95% of my required courses did not make me a senior tech. It was not until a few years later that I felt I earned that title that I finially finished the requirements

Bruce this isnt a customer job but a internal one. It is a vehicle in our fleet which I had brought back to my shop. I already made the determination for our company to buy it back from the insurance company with the intent of salvaging/selling what I can. I was interested in the equiptment on the back as it will be swapped to a new truck along with drivetrain components for future repairs. We have not killed a 6.7 engine yet but its only a matter of time before we do. When we do I plan to have this engine ready to drop in to save us some coin. So yeah I guess I should reword my first post to say "I brought this upon myself" At least its not going back together ever again!

Here is one for the books, This happened a couple weeks ago in las vegas when the driver fell asleep at the wheel and ran it into the guardrail doing 67mph. He no longer works for the company as a result however Im stuck with the task of dealing with the truck. Axle is only attached via driver side radias arm mount, oil pan has a large hole in it along with the oil filter missing and trans pan also smashed in. I plan to replace the oil pan and filter and attempt to start it to verify engine condition which I beleive to be fine. From there Ill tear it down and save what I think will be useful in the future such as the engine assembly etc. Any tips on storage on the engine/fuel system. Besides the obvious of sealing everything up and keeping it inside?

This is along the lines I am thinking of as well as soon as a tuner was mentioned. Alot of tuners raise the rev limiter on the programs