Aaron

Here's what I've got so far: 6007D - OIL LEAK DIAG .4 6007A - R&R ENGINE ASSY 12.0 6007A38 - BEDPLATE SEAL TO BLOCK 2.9 6007A39 - REAR MAIN SEAL (OUT OF VEHICLE) .5 Usually I'm pretty handy at beating up on the SLTS, but this one kind of has me at a loss. I'm pulling the cab and then schooling the motor out that way. Any other opcodes that I can claim that would be especially helpful with getting some time outta this pile of shit? Can I claim 6700A for 1.9 to replace the front crank seal? Anything else guys? Thanks! -Aaron

I had a boss that that was his most common diag procedure on a diesel...cracking the injector lines. Yes, I am kidding, but we ARE going to see this. "Warning? Pfffft...That's not for US!"

"Crack that injector line open and see if the fuel knock goes away!"

Oh, I caught it

For sure. That plastic tube is JUNK.

I found this in the V-8 Cafe...that's funny right there - I don't care who you are.

I'm gonna drink about 5 more drinks of crown royal and go and start picking on Rover. Rex, rather.

I warm 'em up gently with the heat gun, kerchunk, they flop right on.

Yeah, and then they'll want us to grind valves if necessary.

The "soap" we use to wash the floor is diluted all to hell (cost cutting) and then it's diluted again by the hydro-ma-foamer or whatever the fuck it's called that applies it to the floor. We aren't supposed to use the engine shampoo because it's too expensive, which I can understand. The best stuff we had in the last little while at the shop I used to work at was the powdered stuff, but you had to make sure that you washed it off real good, or it would stain the floor all white and your stall would look worse than it did before you washed it.

If it makes you feel any better, I spent almost an hour washing and degreasing my bay floor on thurday, only to get a cam sensor recall friday morning on a 7.3 that was leaking fuel as fast as you could put it in the tank. Fuel filter drain housing gizmo leaking. "Oh no, it's okay, we'll fix that ourselves." As well as the lower water pump outlet elbow leaking coolant all over the place.

The truck I just did was like this, I used the new-style tube with no problems. Come to think of it, the last truck I had apart for injectors had early style on one side, and late style on the other.

The bigger and older boys at work pick on me and take my lunch money, I should see if this works. I think my favorite noise description is "Chuckle" as seen on the vehicle inspection job aid the S.A.'s use I shoulda put a after my big stereo comment...sarcasm is lost on the interwebs.

Makes it easier to put studs in it, too. Ford does not have a procedure for pre-08 cabs because you aren't supposed to pull the cab to do heads Crew cab, you say? You will need to remove the back seat to get the center mount bolts out that are under the carpet. DO NOT CLIP THE SHIFTER CABLE UP INTO THE CLIP ON THE FLOOR WHILE YOU HAVE THE CAB UP IN THE AIR. You set the cab down, and it squishes the shifter cable between the frame and the floor. Ask me how I know. One side the bolts are 15/16" and the other are 13/16". (IIRC, the larger ones are on the RS) Make sure to unbolt the power steering cooler from the lower rad support. As Rob said, make sure you pull the ebrake cable out. Take your pick at how you want to disconnect the brakes. You can pull the lines off at the master and take the HCU off the truck body and leave it with the frame, or undo the three lines from the HCU going to the truck. I've tried both and it's kind of a pain in the ass to get the HCU off the body, so from now on I'm going to pull the three lines and just tie the brake lines up to the engine. If you're not sure what I mean by it being a pain in the ass, you'll see once you get the LH battery tray and tray mounting bracket off. Don't forget the ground strap that goes from the motor to the cowl, and there is also a ground strap that goes from the frame to the body on the RH side, right near the cab mount at the front of the driver's door. Vacuum lines if it's a 4x4, disconnect at the elbow near the pump and tie to the motor. Disconnect the MAP hose and leave the MAP mounted to the heaterbox. I think Bruno had a set of actual instructions made up for this, he had posted his email on the Ford msg board to share them if you need them.

I like the "REPLACED CAC TUBE" idea Dwayne! Will have to remember that for our customers that have that shit tube.

That's what I did Keith, but even with putting the elbow back on, it moved the stud up enough that goes through the stator so it's a pain in the nuts to put back together.

Oh man, that's funny. I, also ordered this "GASKET" for my super duty. We had a good giggle about it once it finally showed up. And by the time I get around to closing my work order on my truck once i get the injector changed and diff fixed, it'll be warm, and they'll bounce the claim. "This tsb is used in (list states here) and CANADA" LOL

Big stereo...

Yeah, or it's a stank old DODGE with a Cummins in it.

Now THIS is a PAIN IN THE ASS. Gonna be some broken stators from this, I'm sure.

How about larryatmcf?

Where's the oil coming from in the CAC? 07-8-9 directs you to inspect for turbo oil leaks and to check air inlet restriction so it's not sucking oil from the crankcase vent.

He'll at least have to update his tuner because it won't recognize the new calibration in the truck.