Aaron

The EGR cooler clamp is loose, too.

For the amount of work it takes, you might wanna knock the LPOP cover off and take a look in there, and maybe take some measurements. When you put it back together if everything measures up okay, put a little bit of vaseline in there to maybe help it prime a little?

It's been 350* I'd say it's fucked.

Shop i'm at doesn't really seem to pay it much mind, either.

I have a brick for these situations. Red brick for a red car, blue brick for a blue car...

So is my house

Negatory.

The only difference between stupidity and genius, is genius has it's limits.

I'll need to borrow a metal detector, anybody?

I'm goin' over to your house with the metal detector.

I did 'em 70 ftlbs at a time 70, 140, 210.

Pretty much at sea level here. Did one today. 1 cyl at 260 7 cyls at 280 1 cyl at 80. I'd say she's junk.

Yup. I'd measure the holes. The 18mm gaskets will have a ~18mm hole, and the 20mm gaskets will have a ~20mm hole

As for the other news, hung out with a couple different broads... Now not only do I get mind fucked by the ex, but by broads that I barely even know, too. What a shit show this is turning into.

He probably just turned the radio up

I don't know about the trans mount idea on a 4x4 truck, wouldn't you have transfer case issues? If you guys are doing cylinder heads in-chassis the way I do, (cooling stack out so you can stand right in the engine compartment), removing the LH motor mount, would likely drop the motor to give you some more room to drop the studs in. Never tried it, just a thought. Or you could be like the guy that did the EGR coolers on the harley truck I was repairing a wiring harness under the carpet on... F-450 Harley 2008. CUT A FUCKING HOLE IN THE FLOOR TO ACCESS THE EGR COOLER BOLTS.

I don't know your situation, but I know mine was so fucked my options were coming down to bankruptcy. I called one of those 'credit counseling' places, they were super polite and understanding, called all my creditors and told them, listen: this is what this fellow is going to pay. This is what you guys are gonna do for the interest rates. You don't like it? We're gonna recommend a bankruptcy. So now all my bills are going to be paid off, and yes, it leaves a scar on your credit, but the phone calls stop and after your program is done (at least in Canada) your credit shows that you paid everything. There are a lot of places out there that do this, the one I used was a not-for-profit one, it cost me $50 to get the program set up, ad I had a LOT of debt.

Negligible, I would imagine. Simple heat transfer principles, on paper would to me indicate a little bit longer timeframe to get the cooler to it's proper operating characteristics, but once it was there, performance would be on-par with the original equipment cooler. I would have a great deal of interest in comparing one with an Ontario Drive Clean Opacity Test. The other interesting characteristic of the bulletproof one is the fact that the late-style cooler uses the same style of 'guts' as the early style one, which would lead me to believe that the tailpipe emissions would be quite similar to those from a truck equipped with the original equipment cooler. Less the antifreeze being pumped out the pipe, or running out of the drain hole in the muffler onto the highway.

You had the whole harness in the van and then the FICM wouldn't plug in? Oh, I'd be sour.

Is there a checkvalve in the HFCM?

No pay for diag, classy.

Yeah, what Keith said. I just fix the shit, and do my paperwork. The admins can worry about the warranty numbers. The fucking SECOND I find someone turning away diesel work cause it will fuck up our warranty numbers... Oh man, that won't be pretty.

I had one that had an oil temp out of range code at 255 deg, melted standpipe. Customer unplugged the fan and ran it at 30% TP for 31 minutes till it set that code and shit started going wrong.

Fleetrite exhaust band clamps. 10" diameter.

Looked it up on Microcat today. You CAN buy the DPF/SCR/CAT in sections... but in great big letters as you select each individual portion: NOT FOR WARRANTY REPAIR. The only part that is repairable under warranty is 5H270 and that's the whole shootin' match...front to back. It still doesn't price out.