cbriggs

Matt, I have had one of those fittings leak. I'm pretty sure I plugged it with an oil drain plug. I'll try to remember for sure . At work :Just finished an 05 f-350 bed plate reseal. 1st one ever retail. (a/m warranty) And while it was out the customer wanted the head gaskets done and ARP studs installed. Plus It had multiple p/s leaks, a pinion seal leak, a fuel leak, a coolant leak, I think that was it. 2012 f-350 shocks, pinion seal, trans service and the wastegate hoses, an 06 dodge governor pressure sensor and solenoid, 2012 f-250 mil on, reducant line heater open circuit, Now an 08 f-450 that wont build hp fuel pressure. pheww, and this is just since Monday. At home : 1970 chevy c-10 pickup, retro fitting to a tci street fighter 700r4 trans. (I built a 475hp small block for it last year, now he wants a cruising gear) should be done by Friday, just waiting for the driveshaft to get lengthened and balanced. Still working on the 37 ford pickup. Owner decided to go full on, set a 75k budget. Now its getting a full chassis built by total cost involved in california, (4 link rear suspension with a 9", IFS front end, on air all the way around.) 430 hp LT1 from a 97 corvette, 4L65 trans, widening the fenders and boards 4" overall. We are nearly done the sheetmetal work and mock up. Cant wait to get the chassis painted and start assembling it.

Too bad more SM's didn't operated the way you do! That's awesome. I bet our SM doesn't know the % that retail or warranty is up or down. Not totally her fault though, upper management wont let her see the numbers. The only thing she gets to see is the techs hours.

I put a set of victors in a side job I did at home. Time will tell I guess, but they looked exactly like oem except for the black sealant vs blue.

I've used dorman exhaust manifolds in the past, on gas stuff. Replaced them shortly after with oem in all cases.

You talking front or rear Mike? Out here the front are gravy....

Not sure about the idle shutdown feature, but I hook up bcp in most of my customers trucks as a quick and easy idle up feature. Most leave the upfitter switch on and operated it with the park brake.

I put a jasper 6.0l in an 03 f-550 a while ago, customer supplied part. On install it was a crank no start, 0 psi icp pressure. It was an 03, there were no orings in the 2 stc fittings from the flex hose to the rails.(hmmm, the tag says that it was run on a dyno? I call bullshit) Also put an fqr in an 07 a bit ago, ran for about 1000km and came in running rough, died in our lot. Massive combustion gas leak in rh fuel rail. Found all rh injectors were not torqued.

I've had a rash of ebp sensors lately as well.

I've only seen one truck with the full egr delete, no reports of heat issues from the customer.

I recently had a 2010 5.4l f-150 come in, super low mileage, around 20,000km if I remember right. It was stalling and surging, had cam timing codes and bank 1 vct err pid was steady at -45`. I was able to command vct and correct the timing, so I knew vct was operating, narrowed it down to base timing. It also had super milky oil, and about 3/4L of water came out of the plug before the oil when I drained it. Tore it down and found the vct phaser had turned slightly on the end of the cam and half torn the lineup pin thru the vct phaser itself. There was also evidence of the same failure on the lh cam and phaser, but not bad enough to flag timing codes yet. The phaser bolts were tight, but both phasers fell to pieces when I unbolted them from the cams. The cam journals in the heads were perfect, but all the cam lobes and roller followers were scored. When the concern happened it was about -30`c out, he said he fired it up, it had a hard time starting, then when it did after running for around 15 seconds the low oil pressure warning came up on the dash. He shut it off, restarted it 5 minutes later and it was running rough. My theory is that all the moisture in the oil froze the roller follower bearings, and when started the power needed to drive the cams nearly tore the phasers off. I think the oil was so frozen that the oil pump was unable to pull oil from the pan hence the low oil pressure light. 2 cams, phasers, all roller followers and timing chain tensioners and it is perfect. I know the customer personally, he drives the truck 2 kms, twice a day to his hardware store and back home, and that is it. He now drives the truck for a 40km journey once a week and changes his oil every 3 months...

These trucks should be built with a factory turbo timer. Make it not immediately shut down the engine at key off if the egt is above predetermined level. Could make it cancelable thru the IC for emergency situations. People are too impatient to sit in the truck and let the truck idle too cool/ slow the turbo for 3 to 5 minutes.

Heres a good one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGRuFcR8rBM

Cool, thanks guys!

I swear I remember someone posting a snap on tool # for a socket that fits the oddball end on the pipe to manifold studs on our v-8 gassers. Have searched and searched and cant seem to find it. Anyone know the number?

I have had this happen a few times. I have decided that for whatever reason, (either being drained of oil or fuel for a while) an injector will hang completely open. The resulting cylinder pressure in the fuel rail makes it tough to purge the air from the rail and get fuel to all the injectors on that side. Keying it on 6 or 8 cycles seems to help get it going, once running and revved up a few times they have always cleared up for me.

The ground bolt on the lower rf of the engines weren't tightened enough, some loosened off and then would overload the body to engine groundstrap and burn it off during cranking.

I say all these a/m companies, possibly with help from the manufacturers, start up a registry system. If you want to purchase an off road product for your vehicle, you should have to provide your vin and proof of ownership/ registration, or whatever. This information would then be relayed to the manufacturer of said vehicle and the registering province/state. This would make it nearly impossible to register or have warranty repairs done to a vehicle that had been fitted with off road only components. Any software, tuners or like would have to be vin locked before purchase, to prevent them from being purchased with a fake or write off vin. The only fault with this idea is, they would sell a shit pile less of this stuff, so they would likely not be on board with it. Maybe the epa needs to make it manditory for them? Maybe it would force them to work on some emissions compliant adds? Who knows. I do think the end user needs to be held mostly responsible for having off road only components installed on thier on road vehicle. Plead ignorance all they want, its kindergarten grade english.

Ever notice how, after running a car for 30 seconds to get it in the shop, the cats continue to heat, and 15 minutes later are still too hot to touch?

The oil overfull code comes from a calculation of unmetered fuel source entering the engine. If the engine has a tonne of blowby, it could explain the oil consumption, and the excess crankcase vapours could give the oil overfull code. I did an engine on an 08 recently, that was down into the low 200's on several cylinders, and high 200's on the rest. Ran remarkably good, started good cold, but burnt 10 liters of oil every 2000kms.

Jim, I also dissmantled the exhaust braket, as I couldn't find any other way to get that bolt loose. I liken this thing to the 6.4. Seems very tough to work on, but once you've had a few of them appart, and know how everthing is assembled, they might be ok. I like how small and light everything is, the ptu cant weigh 10 pounds. On the bright-ish side, I was disscussing the large ro we had on this one wit hour sm, she phoned in to recalls to get final approval on all the extra time spent on the 12s41 reflash, and they said there was no need for approval anymore, just mt all time over the allowed and they will pay it.

I made several interesting discoveries on the one I am working on. Anyone that has a suspected block heater leak, do me a favor, look closely at the heater hose, above the rear(ish)of the trans bellhousing, the one with the large "t" in it. I have a suspicion that when the quick coupler on there leaks, it runs down the block heater cord, along the exposed part of the element, across the block heater housing and down the engine block. None of this can be seen from below, only from above, with the cowl off, and using a mirror. I only spotted the hose leak from below, with the ptu out. Another interesting discovery, I had to put an epas rack in mine to cure a bad clunk/rattle in the front end.(my RO had 7 lines, car has 4000kms)The subframe must be removed to replace the rack. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes to remove the subframe and rack assy. If I ever have to do anymore rear engine repairs on one of these ( block heater, turbo, exhaust manifold or pipe) I think it would be way more efficient to remove the subframe, rather than the rh drivetrain and the ptu. With the subframe out the catalyst pipe can be simply unbolted and removed. The cat pipe covers the block heater, the whole reason to remove the ptu is to get the cat pipe out. When removing subframe only a handfull of bolts and nuts need replacing, whereas remving the rh drivetrain and ptu, every seal, nut, bolt and some hard parts require replacement.

I currently use a 12,000 lb bend pack.(floor bump unit, clear overhead) It is 15 years old, and (dont laugh) a very good hoist. Unfortunatly the bend packs built now are not 1/4 as well built as this one. It needs to be replaced this spring, but I dont think we will replace it with another bend pack.

I've never paid much attention, I have always assumed that every one of these had at least one rad.

I always tell people, 49% of 6.0ls are used improperly, 49% are mainatained improperly, and there are a few that just break for no reason. Now that these have been around so long, there are alot of very high mileage trucks running around here, that had all the common problems like stc fittings, egr oil cooler failures, and head gaskets repaired on warranty, and almost no problems since.

Quote: you cant fix stupid.... Well, there is one known cure, but euthenasia is illegal almost everywhere...