joshbuys

Econolines aren't bad at all, once you've done a couple (as with anything else) they're 'easy' and you can make PLENTY of time on them since everything pays so well on them.

That's funny right there, I don't care who you are!!

Yes, the F650/F750 6.0 have mechanical fuel pumps, best thing is pressurizing the fuel tank to force the fuel up to the pump while cranking the engine.

Last F750 I did was on top at the front - gotta remove the air filter assembly, but it goes pretty quick, IIRC it sets a code when the filter gets too restricted, sets the CEL on.

+1, and occasionally dies at a stop light, but restarts every time.

Just finished pulling one apart a few minutes ago for this concern, although the fuse wasn't blown on mine, just the ground side rubbed through and was shorting - set a P0003 and P0088. No convoluted tubing on mine, AND IT NEVER HAD A VENTURI "T" PUT ON IT, and the radiator is still not leaking - 67k miles on the clock.

just finished up an 07 mustang 4.0 long block and heater core 04 6.0 blown up motor - getting a long block 07 6.0 needle bearings through the oil pump, lifter stuck in the bore - getting a short block and front cover and high pressure pump 06 6.0 needle bearing jammed the low pressure regulator - waiting for customer to decide what they want to do

I had to make a move, my old dealer keeps hiring guys so they "can get the trucks out faster" which leaves everyone standing around making 40 hours in 2 weeks, I just can't afford that, made 40 hours in 3 1/2 days at my new dealer, and there seems to be plenty of work to go around, the other 'heavy duty' guy there doesn't do anything that isn't 'heavy duty'

Just started at a new dealer this last week, kinda strange pulling the engine on a mustang, never been there before, I've always been in the truck shop doing Super Duties.

18k is the way to go, I had an 18k at my old dealer and it worked great for lifting the trucks you're talking about, as well as lifting cabs.

I've got a 99 that I just put heads on 2300 miles ago, along with all 8 injectors and glow plugs. It came back in knocking, they tried to blame it on me, but I didn't make the piston ring come apart.

One of the guys in my shop had an Escape leaking at one of the heater hose connections right above the manifold, the 'latching' mechanism on those hoses is pretty crappy IMHO.

I've seen many, MANY trucks with partially plugged screens in the pick-up unit that cause a very noticeable lack of power with only 7 - 10"HG at the inlet of the pump. Just sayin'

11 F650 Cummins cracked exhaust manifold/broken manifold bolts 06 F550 dies/won't start at times - P132b, P0401, P0281, U0105, have duplicated once, but all PID's indicate it should run....a little extra cranking time - like a couple minutes (30 second intervals) and it fires up. 05 F650 Coolant temp guage inop. 08 Isuzu NPR crew cab - turbo charger, #1 fuel supply line 08 F450 intermittent engine 'knocking' noise - haven't been able to duplicate yet, P0087 06 Hino 268 loses communication with transmission module and a couple others I haven't yet looked at

I yank the turbos now, I did one with the trans out, that sucked!! I can have the turbos out in around 1 1/2 hours, it's easiest if you do a partial cab lift, but sometimes that's not feasible. Like on the Limo bus I did, but with the right tools I rarely round a bolt (knock on wood)

Ok, this is all second hand info as I have not looked at the truck myself, it's at another shop that calls me from time to time for help, 2003 6.0L, all 8 injectors replaced about 10 months ago, has been fine up until a week ago when it died, then it would start and die, FICM voltage was low so they put in a FICM, now it runs, but it had a miss, 2 and 7 were contributing low and the fuel pressure was low, they replaced HFCM, Fuel Pressure Regulator - 9T517 - and injectors 2 and 7, now it runs smooth hot, but injectors 2 and 7 are contributing low, he says the negatives seem to jump from injector to injector(going to all 8 injectors), but seem to hit 2 and 7 more often than the others, once it has run for 5 - 10 minutes it seems fine. I'm going to take a look at it tonight or tomorrow night, I told them to check for exhaust gasses in the fuel (although I would expect this to be more consistent, and get worse when it's hot), check the cam/crank sensors...looking for any other ideas as I have to drive a ways to get there and would like to be able to check everything in one trip. Thanks in advance for the help!

Got something similar to Keith's picture, works well on 7.3 and 6.0

You use a flexible magnet to fish it out....AND YES IT SUCKS!!!

There are a number of items on the VREF circuit - Baro, EBP, EGR, ICP, MAF, Fan Clutch,etc - I've seen A LOT of fan wiring cut causing a died/no start, as well as EBP's chaffed.

Yeah, stick with the stock Donaldson filter that's "hard to change".... FWIW, I can change the filter in less than 5 minutes, but then I work with some guys that insist on changing the filter "the hard way". Personally, I don't see the point of doing it the hard way when I've shown them the 'secret' easy way to do it....

156

It appears you'll be getting a break Wednesday with temperatures reaching a brisk high of -29*

I've bent a couple myself....and it's always been when I'm in a hurry and use my air ratchet to run the bolts in, and one of them was with the crank in the 'proper' position.... Moral of my story, HAND TOOLS ONLY when reassembling valve trains

might want to double check that, according to canada.com, twinkies distributed by saputo are actually made in the US.

I don't see nearly as many 6.0's at the dealership anymore, which is sad since they've made me so much money over the years.