ETS

Brass? Have been thinking about this and cannot remember any brass used in these engines except for injector and fuel line seals. Are bearing shells still base brass? Have seen antifreeze cause bearings to flake in severe conditions. But oil would look like milkshake. Are there brass thrust washers holding in lifter rollers? Should be finding rollers themselves also. May be rookie question but I am curious. Thanks All.

I was asking how many times and proper sequence to get engine hours to show up on cluster. I am unable to find it in owners manual or shop manual. Interesting hours to miles is so low. As we all know 60 mph is a mile a minute. And idling is harder on these engines than running them at speed.

Got base oil prssure? Had one with severly damaged pump run me in circles. Found lifter rollers all the way to oil cooler.

I agree NO ROLOCK pads. I have seen first hand what that residue does to bearings. You can't get it all cleaned out of block passages. The "dingle ball" pads are all we were allowed to use under GM warranty. Ended up using scraper and metal surface cleaner. Finished up with scotch brite hand pad and brakeleen. Thanks, Again

How many is appropriate?

Air chisel is temptation... I have used those 3m pads in the past. Good idea, Non abrasive for the most part with light pressure. But they are hard to find up here. Will mail order some. Thanks All, Lots of good ideas.

Even at the new dealer 6.0's are still haunting me. Have very low milage 06 dually with head gasket issues. They have decided to repair and not wholesale. Heads are sent out and probably replaced. Along with coolers etc.... Block is crusty mess. Up until now I have only used a razor blade scraper and carefully cleaned blocks. Does anyone use a rotary tool of any type to clean surfaces? Suggestions are greatly appriciated.

Great new shop! Lots of space and at least 2 stalls I hope. Great to set up equipment where You want it. Hope Parts Dept. gets organized quickly! Digging through palletts of parts sucks. My new shop is very clean and organized, But currently limited to only 1 lift and a shared flat stall.

Thank You Mr. Clayton, It says near bottom; Fleet Vehicle, Modified. Does this refer to beaing Cab & Chassis? Or was it sent to aftermarket for refitting and returned? No clues of what kind of bed was on it. Or added holes in dash for controls. Will engine idle hours show up on scanner in 06? . Looks like it may be a good one. Thanks Again, Mike

I have found a 06 F350 in TX. only has 7880 miles accroding to speedo. Looks as new, 6.0, auto, 4x4, 141wb, upfitters, cloth, trailer tow, cd, etc. Great work truck with flat bed, or maybe a little dump. Wonder if someone would be kind enough to run oasis history on it for me. VIN 1FDWF37P46EC92174. He is telling me 1 owner, Little old man who never used it on a ranch..... yada yada. Wondering if it is a wreck or lemmon. Car fox is clear. Thanks In Advance, Mike

No marks on balancer bolt. It came from one of the better local yards. Finish it up tommorrow. Waiting on radiator. 2" of crystal in bottom of the old one. Car has 81k all freeway miles. My understanding they switched coolant types in mid year. Old engine was early build. Anybody seen similar deposits or clogging in early build cars? Going to flush system and use updated coolant. Put engine in through the bottom. Lifted car enough to slide engine under then raised with engine crane and long chain harness into place. MUCH easier than out the top.

It will come out top. Have it stripped, removed and new one dressed. Must pull all accessories and water pump but NOT BALANCER as it is a bitch to time and reinstall. Thanks for all the suggestions!!!

I have picked up a 2011 Escape with bad engine cheap. Have used 14k 2.5 Engine on shop floor. Is it possible to bring it out the top? I have limited time in the shop this weekend and don't feel like screwing with cradel. P.S. It's all wheel drive. Any ideas will be greatly appriciated. Wife wants to drive it to work Tuesday.

I have just made yet another full circle and crossed into the dark side as well. Have been in the game for 34 years. Started in a Ford Dealership in 1978. Worked Independants, Company Goodyear stores, Dealerships in Ohio, Florida and now West Virginia. Owned a shop in Fla. for 5 years. Went into teaching alignment techniques for Goodyear. Sold parts 3 years. Still return every time to line tech. Born here probably die here. Few headaches, great money, all expence paid training, 401 and retirement this time. Working in a Toyota Dealership. Haven't made money like this in over 10 years. Guess you can't teach an old dogg new tricks!!

Is lack of maintance causing these problems? All of my 06 fleet have 150k or more with no issues. Use 15-40 and motorcraft filters every 5k. I have seen similar electrical problems on my Super Duty fleet. There is a dedicated ground that runs from control module to pump also tee's off to frame ground further forward. Ground green and fuzzy inside 3 layers of insulation. Causes them to quit on rainy days intermittently.

Mr. Saunoras, What did switching to Synthetic 5W-40 do for you? How often do you do changes? I have been running 5k on conventional oil. Since major repair is complete been thinking on switching.

I thought that was the case but wanted to be sure. I remembered seeing your post on testing coil circuits but was unable to find it in search. I have checked connector and insulated it with dielectric grease previously. I will do a closer inspection and test circuit as per post. Haven't had a bad PCM here yet. 8 06 F250's in my fleet. Thanks Again Mr Clayton.

2006 F250 5.4 4x4 Auto. I have a puzzler here. First off it has miss for first 30 seconds of operation every morning. Has 30k on Ford Reman. Longblock. 353k on body. Sets PO353 probably ounce a month. Replaced #3 coil and plug. Sets again switched coils and plugs with #1. Sets again. [Problem goes away for month after replacing/switching] Plugs look normal. Tough to run tests in a minute but has issue with #3 contribution. I have ohmed circuit back to PCM and looked for chafeing. No problems found. Question is can Fuel/Mechanical problem set Primary circuit fault? This truck has never had injectors done. Injector Leaking?? Going to test more Sat when I can pull it from service. P.S. also found PO300 this time. Fuel pressure and volume are good.

Must have been sampling the above before installing the below! That's a good one.

Owner here switched jobs like that to Straight Time And Materials. Haven't seen one here in a while. Thank Goodness! You men from the Great White North can have them all.

Found low milage used heads in a yard in PA. Cost 200.00 each. Sent them out to diesel machine shop for pressure test, magnaflux, surface check, etc. etc. another 200.00. Found new harness in sealed box on E pay. I think it was like 125.00 with ride. Ford gaskets on E pay also got two for price of 1 from shop somewhere in VA. Same with oil cooler paid about 2/3 price. Went with bullet proof egr cooler 250.00. Studs were expensive! No deals on them out there. Misc. stuff from local dealer. I had been collecting pieces for the last 4 months. Job cost me about 1800.00 total I guess. Plus my labor. Thinking about carring the bill to local magastrate and trying to force selling dealer to pay at least part of the bill. Truck was broke when I bought it. Probably a waste of time though.

Update for anyone interested, Cyl. head cracked at #7 injector cup. Replaced both heads and installed studs with Ford gaskets. Also replaced coolers and engine harness. Checked fuel pressure it was borderline low at time of repair, Installed updated pressure regulator kit. Looking for good price on module. THANKS AGAIN! Too all of you.

More thought for food... 06 350 4x4 heating up when pulling his tractor loaded on trailer, Probably 15k. No codes, Data all looked good, Fan ok, New t-stat & flushed. Already has head gaskets and studs. This mystified me all last summer. Finally started having drivability issue on hills. Found partially plugged catalytic converter after lengthy testing. I remember back pressure readings were strange anything over 1/2 throttle. Look for glowing converter after hard run. All is good after replacement.

You guys have any ideas why it seems #7 always is the one with problems? The last 4 trucks with cylinder issues I have seen here all had #7 weak or dead. 2 trucks had other cylinders also. My personal truck [2006 F350] had cracked head at #7 injector cup.

This one was Cake compared to Sick-0. No problems did lift front of cab and set on wood 4x4 blocks for a little added clearance. Thanks guys! You all are 5 head bangers!