Matt Saunoras Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 P0087, P008A, P0170, and 2 contribution codes, can't remember which cylinders. This was a 15 F-250, 25k miles, no history of anything, owned by the supervisor of my best fleet. Filters were OEM only 5k on them. I did think about the lower filter sucking air but I may have fixed that when I removed and regreased the oring. I tried to blow as hard as I could through the secondary filter and could not. This thing was humming very loudly up until I put the new sec filter in. Changed the filters, put 30 miles on it and let it go. We'll see how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Steve: Never heard of them personally, but they have a pretty fancy website. Seems they specialize in heavy duty mostly. Have you given them the heads up on the quality of their work? Customer came down and had a look, he called them up and told them about what I had seen so far. He still wants me to put then engine in and the engine builder told me just to clean and swap bolts over from the old engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clark Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Forgot to note this is not a ford reman, its is from some place called engientech machining in edmonton alberta. Anyone from alberta know anything about this company? I have already told my higher ups that this does not look good and apparently I don't have a choice, it has to go in. No worries man, they've got calipers and parts washers and stuff...http://www.enginetechmachining.com/about/equipment/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Doing a little home improvement at the shop. I recently bought a 3/4" impact and not wanting to hold it back any I spliced in a fitting for a half inch hose. The couplers are 3/8" high flow v-style.That air line is the first drop from the compressor and unfortunately it gets the most water. what I need to do is put a cross in there and drop to a ball valve to let it all out. That's the next plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 '11 6.7L turbo coolant outlet pipe Jiffy-tite fitting leaking. Used my nose to get the general area and bore scope to get a visual of the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Got one done over the weekend and 3 more came in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy57 Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 The engineering correctness part of me thinks these quick fittings are shit. The wants money to spend part of me LOVES them!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I've had some funky things like that happen when guys change one filter at a time and crank it in-between. Anyone ever had a 6.7 secondary fuel filter restricted but when you cut it open nothing looks wrong? OEM or aftermarket filter? Aftermarket 6.7 secondary FF are bad news..... Got one here today towed in with low fuel pressure codes. It stalled at one point but idled okay enough to load onto and off of the truck.Fuel system was humming pretty loudly until I changed the secondary filter,I take it the fuel filter cover and o-ring were installed properly? Just curious what codes you had. Well the truck came back. Seems to be routine with what I work on lately.The customer filled it up after he left on Friday and had no problems until late yesterday when I got a message saying it was running fine but the fuel system was making a lot of noise. I verified it today, very loud but running okay. He went through a whole tank of fuel before it started happening again.One thing lead to another and I popped the fuel cap off and it hissed real loud, the fuel pump is pulling a vacuum on a tank, vent must be restricted. Right after that no more noise.A few years ago I changed some plastic midship tanks for the same reason but I can't remember what the vent looked like or if it could be cleared out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 A few years ago I changed some plastic midship tanks for the same reason but I can't remember what the vent looked like or if it could be cleared out. Smoke machine with flow meter could be used to verify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Tried the smoke machine pressure meter and an airlift tool for vacuuming coolant systems. Both tests were inconclusive. I tried my own truck as a control and I get the same results. If I use the smoke machine pressure test I get about a .020" leak either way. I was able to pull a decent vacuum on both tanks, mine and the suspect one with the airlift tool. Without pulling the tank I located the little dust cap on the "vent", removed it and ran a hose up to the nipple. I was able to actuate the check ball with about 5 inHg vacuum. These unscientific tests are getting me no where. I'm not exactly sure how this "vent" is supposed to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Matt, you wouldn't happen to have a DSO or if not how about an amp draw on the fuel pump. I have some captures of an '11 I could compare them with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 No nothing like that. I ordered a tank for it, the only thing that makes me feel better is the known issue with these tank vents. Hotline agrees with what I've come up with so far. In the mean time the tranny is back out of the rollback, rechecked endplay with the belts off and it is .008-.009", still well under spec, the runout of the rear crankshaft adapter appears to be minimal if any. And I've got the tranny out of the E-450 bus. It's getting a reman unit, one injector on each side, heater hoses and a turbo cleaning. Also sold a engine reseal on some 6.0 gas well garbage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Quattro. Cab offs are pretty common, but 4 simultaneously? 6.7 beside me for heads, 5.0 in my bay for head gaskets and 2 more 5 liters each getting a cylinder head. Customers walk by and get a little anxious ..... "lots of work to change the engine oil, eh?" hehe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Wow, why is the 6.7 getting cylinder heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Wow, why is the 6.7 getting cylinder heads? I'm getting a bit ahead on that one. Guy beside me is doing it, and as far as I know it is overheating while towing and venting from the degas. EGR is deleted. Blue combustion leak tester turns colour at the degas. It's actually getting head gaskets first, but from looking at them today there was nothing wrong. Heads are suspected, but the gaskets are going in now to test as per hotline. Conversely, I got lucky on my 5.0 - combustion leak tester was positive, and on teardown I found obvious gasket failure at cylinder 7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Here's a good one, got down to the cause of my 6.7 low fuel pressure issue. Ordered a tank for it because I wasn't happy with the vacuum it was pulling but at the same time wasn't totally sure of what was happening. Removed the tank today and took out the pickup to swap it over. While it was out I had a real close look at it for the brain bank. Noticed something at the bottom of the bowl, not very easy to see actually. It was a damn cardboard disc from a fuel additive cap floating around in the pickup bowl. Man that thing had to make one hell of a journey to end up there, the filler neck is at the opposite end of the tank. No doubt this was the whole issue with it stalling out. I read about this happening but I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen it. That damn thing is the perfect size to cause an issue with the way these pickup tubes are designed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Nice find Matt and now you know more then you care about the vent and rollover valve on a diesel tank. New tank is included with every fuel additive cardboard removal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted September 25, 2015 Share Posted September 25, 2015 Nice find Matt!! Thank you for all the information you post up here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 '08 F-450 6.4L had a bad vacuum pump. Anybody ever used a 6C3Z- 2A451-A instead of the 7C3Z-2A451-B and swap the bracket, the 7C3Z is twice the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 Got an 02 F-550 7.3L ZF-6 here that was towed in, running like crap and stalling out. Barely made it off the trailer. We've had a bunch of rain here the last few days so I started looking at some wiring. Found vref for the accelerator pedal rubbed through on the LF shock tower. Fixed that, now I can't get it to act up BUT it sets a P1211 under hard acceleration. Had a ICP, IPR and fuel strainers replaced about 3k miles ago by me after the thing died on a roadtest. Seems to be fine, driving it normally it won't code. I need to look and see if this thing has a chip first. It's an auction truck with unknown history. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 - 2013 3.5 F150 torn apart for timing chains, tensioners and phasers - 2015 Edge torn apart for the water intrusion recall .... this sucks. just finished putting in the dash harness and the body harness. reassembly hasn't even started and i'm at 16 hours. the recall pays 17. the PTS forum has guys coming in just shy of 40 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Getting bitched at by the customer about this 6.0 that needs resealed and I haven't got it in yet. Haven't had a free rack since its been here. Luckily today I can get it in or they would have pulled it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 Make sure to go to the slts tab for the 15 edge and "report a problem". If they get 5 report a problems for the same op they will automatically restudy it. If they get one with enough detail they will restudy it after just one report though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 Okay back on the F-550 rollback 6.4L that's eating flexplates. I've talked to the hotline escalation team, I've unofficially jumped a few steps and talked to the FSE. No one has any hard answers or real diagnostic steps beyond what I've already done. I can't make a measurement on this crankshaft that gives me a reason to go further into the engine, it's just not there. So I grab a brand new Ford flexplate and adapter, bolt it up to the engine and take a runout measurement at the teeth. Come up with a ton of runout, like .025-.030". Seems excessive to me. Ran the engine with the new flexplate installed and I can see it's way out, it just looks horrible hanging off the back of that engine. It's very wobbly and definitely not what I would expect to see from something that should be spinning relatively true. Had someone run the engine up off idle and it had a horrible vibration. That was pretty scary with my head up in the tunnel. I was not happy at all with that new plate so I made a few calls and found a used, known good, undamaged plate from a running truck. Put that in today, made the same measurement at the teeth, got .010" at the most. Started the engine again and I see this used plate is running much more true. For a very small amount of time we all breathed a sigh of relief, when one part is bad, especially a stamped, machined part that is subject to tooling wear it's possible all those parts in that production line are also bad. Could we really have gotten 4 bad new flexplates? That's wishful thinking. Then the lingering question, what broke the original plate? Well without anything else to do, I put the tranny back in, got it mated perfectly, checked to make sure the converter was loose and not binding up. Did the 180 degree tightening of the converter nuts and anything I could think of that might make the smallest difference. I get the truck running again but it has an aftermarket alarm type thing in it. When you start the engine with the PATs key it'll run and drive just fine but this beep will go off if you don't touch a special blue key to this little slot on the dash. It'll ring the whole damn time your driving. You can almost drown it out if you have the radio up all the way which is usually what I do, they always seem to forget to leave me the blue key. Not good if you need to listen for noises (like I should have been doing before I let it go the first time). So I ran down their garage, got a blue key and away we go, peace and quiet........but not for long. This thing is making a dull hollow knocking noise at idle and under load about 1200-1500 rpms. You can hear it in the cab with the windows up and it definitely got louder as the engine warmed up. Then sometimes at idle it goes away like it was never there to begin with. Me and the other guy on my side of the shop crawled all over this thing trying to find out where it's coming from. Our best guess? You can basically feel it in the oil pan. When I pulled the little flexplate/converter nut inspection cover off I could hear it even louder. Something in this 6.4 is making a noise neither one of us has ever heard before. I have to assume it's a bearing but really I have no idea, now would be one hell of a good time for someone to invent x-ray glasses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Could it be coming out of the torque converter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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