mchan68

The most current part number is 4C3Z-12B599-ABRM across the board, E or F Series.

Well, apparently some DIYer dared to. And it supposedly paid off.

You would even question this? I'm sorry but the moment the mugged him, and started beating the crap out of him makes them criminals. END OF DISCUSSION. The very fact that they returned the items was a moot point in my opinion, and little consolation for shit kicking he took.

Okay, is this something we are going to be asked to perform as a warrantable "repair" in the near future? I was strolling along through one of the "other" diesel forums and came across this:

That's actually what I was thinking Alex. Just reading through the PPT to test the HPOP output and high pressure oil system diag, is making me wonder how I'm going to test this thing with EOT temps cold if this puppy doesn't start on Monday morning. This is all the while I've been instructed to carry out the repair "as economically as possible". In other words, fix it but don't expect to get paid for it.

Well well well. It couldn't happen at a worse time. It appears our coffee truck has poo-pooed his high pressure pump. Just as I was about to arrange getting that 2008 POS F-550 into my bay in preparation for the cab removal, I am informed that our coffee truck is rolling in on the hook. IDS test. P2290 and P0272 are the DTCs. Monitor PIDs. IPR climbs to 85% cranking, ICP_DES @ 1305 and ICP fluctuates between high 300's to low 400's. Truck is an '03 with 255,000 kms. on the clock. ICP volts @ KOEO is 0.22, so I know it's not the ICP sensor (no P2285 DTC). I know I've read a lot of threads where '03 model years with low ICP no-starts have always ended up being the HPOP. My question is, is there any quick and easy test that can be done that will confirm with 100% certainty that the HPOP is fried? Given the fact that this is retail, I want to be 100% certain before delivering the wonderful news. Oil changes have always been done at our store since the truck was new. I think I read somewhere that to test the high pressure oil system requires removal of both valve covers and to dead head the pump. Is there a specific value that pump output should be? I just LOVE Friday afternoons like this!!!

Can't say. I haven't driven one.........YET.

I absolutely HATE those cars, if we are talking about the Lincoln MKS. I did a PDI on one not too long ago, and just about every experience I had with it was horrible. Let's see: -you can't see jack shit in the back, due to its body design, leaving blind spots as bad, or even worse than a Ford GT -that stupid push-button start feature took me minutes to figure out, how to get the damn thing started. Just another gimmick that I think is stupid -the way the console and instrument panel is designed, makes me feel very claustrophobic, due to how little space there is to move around -the particular model I drove and PDI'd was front wheel drive and had A LOT of torque steer under moderate acceleration, something I feel SHOULD be non-existent in a car with a $40G price tag. If for no other reason, AWD SHOULD be standard. WTF is with all these Lincoln MK this and MK that lately? This is starting to get too damn confusing. If Lincoln's intent is to get all the loyal faithful Town Car owners back into the showrooms, one thing's for damn sure. They AIN'T doing it with this car! Speaking of which, WHY WHY WHY discontinue the Town Car/Grand Marquis/Crown Victoria line? That model line has to be EASILY the most successful line for FoMoCo.

Funny you should say that. I was just toying with the idea of doing just that. At $20G for a 6007 drop-in assembly, something gives me this awful feeling that I'm going to be playing telephone tag with Ford on this one.

That's what the SM and I are shooting for. I hear the head bolt torque for these bastards are TIGHT.

Well, I was able to take a quick glimpse of the vehicle outside today on what little free time I had. I was thinking a failed horizontal EGR cooler hydrolock. Closer inspection revealed a hole in the engine block on the passenger side of the engine. I thought that cylinders #2 and #8 were the favourite two to let loose on these animals. Vehicle is a loader F-550 with PTO, 4x4 and 6 speed manual. Any tips on cab removal? Any links with pictures that will be easier to use as a quick reference than the WSM? I'm already well aware of the infamous cab bolts that WON'T come. ANY help or tips will be greatly appreciated on this monumental hooping I'm going to be getting, given this will be my first cab-off and major repair on a 6.4L.

Are you in one of your usual philosophical moods again Jim?

I checked ALL chain guides and none of them were broken.

I wish it were that. I checked around the front cover, timing chains and anywhere I could think of, where the trigger wheel could potentially contact without finding anything. This engine has never been apart (at least not according to OASIS anyways), so I'm stumped. Got it all back together and it's running fine for now.

I have an '07 F-150 5.4L 3V diag'd by our tune down department needing a bank #2 phaser and VCT valve body. Just as I was getting ready to re-install the front cover, I noticed this: Has anyone ever come across this before? I checked for play on the crank keyway, and clearance on the back side. It doesn't appear that the chains show any signs of damage or evidence of contact. Engine oil is very clean, much like that it was maintained regularly. Believe it or not, this truck came in with the engine running relatively smooth.

We've sold a lot here. Never in for any issues other than usual maintenance. I replaced a eCVT back about three or four years ago, and a main body harness just recently. But those are the only two "major repairs" that have crossed my path so far.

I wasn't referring to removing the cab ENTIRELY. I meant to suggest a PARTIAL lift of the cab, about maybe two inches off the frame, being supported properly of course. The box does flex enough to allow this much of a lift.

You CAN remove the cab, but just do it PARTIALLY. Remove the six 18mm cab bolts and jack up the right side of body with a block of wood between the jack and the channel on the body a couple of inches. That will give you enough clearance to remove the right side VC.

The start of my week went from so so, to absolutely HORRIBLE at about 3:30pm today. I'm a little busy right now, changing phasers and solenoid valve bodies on a couple 5.4L 3V engines and in rolls an '08 F-550 on rad #3, and the complaint goes, "blowing white smoke out the tailpipe, barely running and a loud knocking sound". I waltz outside the front of our service drive to be greeted by a blinding plume of white in the air, along with a puddle of engine oil rivaling in enormity with the Exxon Valdez. YEAH!!!!!! Okay sorry, rant off now.

Are you fuckin' serious? I guess that means you can't even get flatratetech.com either? Who's decision was that?

The most recent one I did, I got debitted the MT time due to the fact that I did it all on one line with the low ICP TSB.

WTF happened? How could such a big guy like you take out your back like that? Were you trying to lift something too heavy that should've been lifted using equipment?

I thought that prior approval was only necessary for turbochargers, cylinder heads/gaskets, high pressure oil pumps, EGR coolers and oil coolers (not the oil cooler "kits"). Is it different for you guys south of the border?

Already removed both bolts. Just can't seem to get the dipstick tube out of the upper oil pan.