DwayneGorniak

One head bolt at a time? Is that areally acceptable? Ford says if one bolt is disturbed, you are doing tham all along with the head gasket.

That's pretty wild! Talk about freakin hot.

I'm betting money on the exact same thing Alex is saying. The jackass is probably lying through his teeth and has put the tuner back in. Burnt skunk piss=blown headgaskets which can also give the side effect of a blown egr cooler. The horrible smell that smells like burnt skunk piss is the premium gold being severely burnt from combustion chamber gasses. The rest of you Eskimos up here in Canada beware: burnt skunk piss coolant can also be a result of a Webasto heater burning the ever living shit out of the coolant as well which can also weaken the headgaskets. I have alot experience with burnt skunk piss. Laugh, okay!

On a regular basis Keith. When you remove the turbo take a look in the back of the turbo when they are that bad as well. It may be full of coolant and the VGT vanes rust up big time from that.

Black skunk piss=headgaskets and or egr cooler. Have you pulled the egr valve out yet and had a look in the intake for coolant? Sometimes you will find black crystals in the intake from the carbon and coolantr mixture being severely burnt.

Welcome to the site Aaron. I hope to hear more from you on this site. You can express yourself freely and never be taken out by that god foresaken censorbitch. Anyway, I'm 34 years old and I have enough grey hair that makes me look 50. I came into this trade at the perfect time if there is such a thing. I took my apprenticeship in Saskatchewan or as I prefer to call it: The overgrown reserve of "Sack-to-chewan". I was taught in the "Saskatchewan Institute of Applied Sciences and Technology" (SIAST) during the last year of carburetors and the first year of Fuel injection. Therefore I was very fortunate to learn both. Being from that big shithole of a province I saw alot of carburetors. I was one of the only couple of guys in the dealership in Regina (Percival Ford) that knew carburetors. And I got experienced in both technologies. It was also at the time when I got to learn about IDI's and then eventually the all new at that time 7.3L DI Turbo diesels. So my point is that I was raised in this trade by a bunch of aging well experienced techs that taught me alot and a time when technology was was rapidly changing and still is. I have always been gratefull for that and I will always respect them for that. And to this day I try my darndest to help and teach any apprentice or even older tech if need be, and I still learn from them all as well. I never ever pretend to know it all. And I will never ever know it all. The day I quit learning is the day they will put me in an oak box and throw me six feet into the earth. And therefore, Thanks to Keith we have a really cool site here that alot of us can communicate on and learn from eachother without that damn censorbitch.

I have had few people ask me why i am not in the cumputer business. And my answer is that I can barely make sense of suck, squeeze, bang and blow these days let alone make sense of pumping the world through little glass pipes via the internet. I have said it for years now: " Grab hold of technology, embrace it, give it a big old Hug and hang on tight because it is going to wrap itself around you and never go away". Like Jim said, the basics of electrical still apply. There is just a shit load more to work with. What was that Henry Ford said? There is never a job too big if you break it down into small jobs? Something like that, I think. One of the things I have done over the years when it comes to technology is to read any little article I can get my hands on or now more than ever pops up on my home page. And no one of us will ever know it all. Try not to clutter your brain with information overload and try to take the common sense approach and know where to find information when you need it. That has been my favourite approach all thes years. What I mean by that is: don't try to remember what every single dtc definition is in your head. Remember how to interpret what that dtc means when you are reading the definition on the laptop. Your brain only has so much space to store useless shit. And you can't buy a bigger hard drive for it. So store the important shit in your brain and let technolgy around you store the rest. And use your technology around you as your library resources. And store your brain with the information on how to find it. It has worked for me. Oh yeah and defrag and flush your hard drive with a case of beer once in awhile. Hope I made some sense Brad.

If it is turbo flutter you are hearing, it is most likely a ceazed turbo. But if it is a popping noise it cold be a broken rocker arm and you can do a relative compression test and power ballance to find out which cylinder it is.

And just think keith, this is a morning that I feel really good. By the way, these things have a North American Nationwide warranty. Should we quit honouring the warranty just because Ford is about to go bankrupt? Like I said, it's not our fault.

We get nailed big time. But our dealer principal knows that we did not build the pieces of shit and it is ot our fault, so fuck them. Service departments are here for the customer, not to be a bunch of warranty Nazi's like Ford wants us to be. Like I said before, it takes an asshole to make a piece of shit: sick litre. And the assholes that built these things are really big assholes because they really are big pieces of shit.

Sorry I took so long Bruce. The tool number is 310-141. I use this tool alot on these injectors and like I said, it works great.

The tool works awsome. Get to know it and it will become a valuable friend. You can find this test procedure in the heading below: 2002 PCED On Board Diagnostics II Diesel SECTION 4A: Diagnostic Subroutines F-250-550 Injector Performance Test. Keith, I don't know what the hell it is I do wrong, but I can never get the pictures to come through. Think you could help me out with this? 2002 PCED On Board Diagnostics II Diesel SECTION 4A: Diagnostic Subroutines — F250-550 and E-Series Procedure revision date: 05/23/2005 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Injector Performance Test Purpose This procedure provides the ability to verify the internal component integrity of the 7.3L diesel fuel injectors. The following Diagnostic Tests must be completed before this procedure: Hard Start/No Start or Performance Diagnostic Guides KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Buzz Test) KOER Cylinder Contribution Test Injection Control Pressure (ICP) Test (Oil Aeration) Recommended Procedure Note: Testing of new fuel injectors prior to installation in the engine will cause inaccurate test results. Note: Before removing the suspect fuel injector(s), remove the valve cover(s) and monitor the fuel injector spill spouts for oil flow while the engine is running at idle. The amount of oil flowing through the top of the fuel injector is directly proportional to the amount of fuel flowing out of the tip. If low oil flow is observed at the top of the fuel injector, fuel flow out the tip will also be low providing a rough idle condition. Item Number Description 1 — Calibrating injector adapter 2 — Calibrating injector O-rings 3 — Fuel injector tester 4 — High-pressure oil port 5 — Fuel port Remove the suspect fuel injector. For additional information, refer to the Workshop Manual Section 303 Fuel Charging and Controls. Inspect the three external fuel injector O-rings for wear, cracks and cuts. The O-rings may be repaired separately from the injector assembly. Install a new O-ring(s) as necessary. Note: A vacuum pump with a minimum 0 - 28 in Hg gauge is required. Note: Inspect the three calibrating injector O-rings for wear, cracks and cuts. Install a new O-ring(s) as necessary. The calibrating injector O-rings are the same O-ring utilized by the 7.3L fuel injector. Verify the fuel injector tester and vacuum pump as follows: Item Number Description 1 — Calibrating injector adapter 2 — Fuel injector tester 3 — Fuel port 4 — Fuel injector retaining bolt (2) Install the calibrating injector adapter into the fuel injector tester and make sure it is properly seated. Use the fuel injector retaining bolts from the engine and torque the retaining bolts to 13 Nm (120 lb/in). Connect the vacuum pump to the fuel port and apply 25 in Hg of vacuum. Monitor the gauge for 6 minutes. Verify there is no vacuum loss. If vacuum loss is present, inspect the fuel injector tester, fittings, O-rings, vacuum hose and vacuum pump for leaks. Repair as necessary and repeat the test. Item Number Description 1 — Fuel injector 2 — Fuel injector tester 3 — Fuel port Once the tool function capability has been verified, lubricate the O-rings of the suspect injector with clean engine oil. Install the suspect fuel injector into the fuel injector tester. Use the fuel injector retaining bolts from the engine and torque the retaining bolts to 13 Nm (120 lb/in). Note: Some fuel injectors may exhibit minimal vacuum loss. Vacuum loss less than 1/2 in Hg is acceptable and does not indicate a damaged fuel injector. Connect the vacuum pump to the fuel port and apply a minimum of 25 in Hg vacuum. Monitor the vacuum gauge for signs of vacuum loss. If vacuum loss is greater than 1/2 in Hg within 6 minutes, the fuel injector is damaged. If vacuum loss is less than 1/2 in Hg, leave the vacuum pump connected to the fuel port and GO to step 6. Item Number Description 1 — High pressure oil port 2 — Fuel port 3 — Spill port Monitor the vacuum pump while connecting 689 kPa (100 psi) of regulated shop air to the high-pressure oil port. If the vacuum loss is affected by the presence of air pressure, the fuel injector is damaged. If no vacuum loss is present, GO to step 7. Check for air leaks possibly indicated by whistles or continuous bubbles at the spill port indicating the fuel injector is damaged. If noncontinuous bubbles are present at the spill port, the fuel injector is not damaged. Vacuum loss indicates internal injector scoring which may cause a rough idle or low power concern. Vacuum loss that is affected by the presence of air pressure on the high-pressure oil side indicates internal O-ring damage. This O-ring separates the fuel from the oil and may contribute to excessive oil consumption. No vacuum loss on the fuel side with an air leak from the high-pressure oil side (top) indicates a damaged poppet valve or seal. Repeat steps 4 - 7 (calibration of the fuel injector tester is not required) for the remaining suspect fuel injector(s) as necessary. Tools Required Lubricants Item Specification SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil XO-5W20-QSP WSS-M2C153-H Fuel Injector Tester Vacuum Pump I will post the tool numbers in the morning for you Bruce.

Okay, for the rear bolt on those ugly freekin turbo's I use a reverse eyeometer(mirror) in my left hand over the Y-pipe so I can see what the hell I am doing and a brazing tip on a torch in my right hand. I heat the steel spacer and the turbo flange. Then crack them loose with a stubby ratchet and a Snapon Flank Drive socket. For the ones that are allready stripped I use Craftsman Bolt Out's along with the heat. Thankyou again Bob Villa for those Bolt Outs. And don't forget to put lock washers in with the new bolts.

Keith, when you pull the injectors out there couldn't be a better time to bench test them. This will illiminate any guess work.

I have run into this alot on the older return fuel systems Keith. What I do is put a shit load of engine oil dye into the crankcase and run the engine untill the crankcase gets low. May have to let the customer drive it for a day or two or drive it home at nites yourself. Once the crankcase is low, pull the fuel filter lid off and shine inside with a black lite. If you see the dye in the fuel, You have an injector O-ring problem. The cause is usually the injector O-rings. Do them all. Obviously, right? I have diaged them like this for years and it works great. Too bad it doesn't work on the newer returnless sytems theough. The old return systems were very easy to diag this way. Hope this helps.

Just to clarify my first reply there Jim, Our dealership may be quite different than the way you run yours. I feel that my dealership should be turning the less important non paying, ungratefull, taking nothing more than advantage of warranty customers away, just like you are saying that your dealership should be turning the less important non paying customers that do nothing but waste your time and efficiency away. Sometimes I just ramble on a little too much and don't always make sense, but hey I'm trying dagnabbit!

I tend to agree with Brad on this. I don't totally agree that the Indy shops are all that great with the sick litres and alot of them seem to have a hard enough time with 7.3L. We have a few Indy shops in our area and I get alot of calls from them about 7.3L's and sicko's. I just blow them off. And sure as hell the truck in question shows up in our dealership eventually. But thats allways strictly diesel diag. Never anything to do with the basics of the rest of the trucks. You can bet your buts that Indy shops make sure they get all the gravy done before they tackle the high tech low paying stuff.

We have crunched numbers at out dealership and the highest rate of retail I have ever seen there in my best month was 12%. On average I am doing 95% to 97% warranty and I never get to see any retail gravy. I just don't have the freekin time. However, the retail I do see, is from my regulars who come in for waranty work and inspections and request that only I work on their trucks. It's nice to get a set of ball joints even though it's only about twice a year. We are in a pridicament where other customers from other dealerships bring their trucks to us, because other dealerships are turning them away. And I can tellyou that we should be chasing these cheap bastards away as well, because they do absolutely no maintenance. But our service manager is freekin superman and we can fix anything. I think I am his superdog.

Don't be upset Alex, I don't think I would want to be lynch mobbed from wearing that jacket in public. Can you picture it? Me screaming and running with a whole bunch of pissed off customers running after me yelling and screaming behind me, you guys said it was a better truck.

Congrats Bruce! It is extremely nice to have a very knowledgable individual like you on this site to chat with. Keep up the good work.

Okay, I know I am up in the land of igloos and whales, but where I come from is a low life province called Saskatchewan. It is a Farm driven province and the economy there sucks. Anyway, the point is that the majority of hard working people there who buy new trucks for their farms or for work do everything humanly possibe to maintain theses things so that they last a lifetime. Because it is such a huge investment to them that they cannot replace them regularily. With that type of mentality there, I have seen Superduty 7.3's hitting 1,000,000km's or 620,000 miles no problem and still run like a dream. They were usually in for their tenth cam sensor or so. My one uncle out there farms 5000 acres and custom combines down in the USA. He is a heavy duty diesel mechanic by trade as well and overhauls all his own equipment. He bought a 99' F-350 brand new and maintains it to the nines. Whenever I talk to him says he can't believe how clean the oil is whenever he changes it. He says it's still a nice brown and he is tempted to run it in his tractors. he pulls a fifth wheel travel trailer down to the USA with it every summer when he is harvesting down there. It now has 600,000km's or 372,000 miles on it and he says it still runs like a dream. If a sick litre can make it off the lot without coughing up a carbon ball, that is amazing.

I see your point Jim. But I have worked in alot of dealerships that have gready Service managers and uneducated Service advisors that don't give a rats ass about how they do up their estimates. This always causes animosity between the advisors/manager and techs. having worked in shit holes like that, i am absolutely sick and tired of getting fucked and having waste half and hour here and there of may time arguing about getting paid fairly when I can do a proper estimate myself. Lets face it, service advisors and some managers are not technicians and don't always know every little thing that has to be done with a repair. At the same though, Our service manager who used to be a tech keeps an eye on estimates just to make sure we are not gouging customers like the gas companies gouge society. And doing estimates in my does not take much time at all. I keep estimate sheets in my box and as I am ispecting or diaging a vehicle I jot the things down that it needs. I also have Alldata available at my fingertips for retail estimating. This can be very efficient if you think about it. The service advisors don't have to turn their back to customers while doing estimates or miss phone calls. They can also be the proffessionals that they should be and explain the estimates to customers after they are done up. The Service advisors do all the adding up of the labour and figure out the rates because we have menu priced rates. I used to be Foreman just like yourself at another dealership Jim. I have seen alot of different ways of doing things. And I have to say that this sytem works pretty good as long as someone is overlooking the system and making sure everthing is on the straight and narrow. I woud never go back to being fucked the way I have been at other dealerships. Hope I made some sense.

Since my last post, we have received information on the product and it is cmpatible for the new trucks and is also backwards compatible.

Once in a while, yes. Maybe the 450th reflash has a glitch in it and they will need to update the calibration to improve onboard diagnotics "again"!

Wow! How true Keith. I hope they don't get any of my R.o's. My stories start off something like this: Eight inch lift kit, 37" mudders, Edge juice three stage chip onboard, four inch exhaust, K&N engine duster and propane injection. DI performance diagnostics: I list all my my DTC's and diagnostics. Inspect and determine engine damage: pistons are melted and have really big fuckin holes in them. Heads are warped .008" and turbo is ceased due to being at at maximum boost for for it's entire life. Repair: Replaced all faulty parts because service manager told me to. That my friends is called covering my own ass. I have been in other dealerships that used to warranty the shit of this crap and keep turning a blind eye to it. And still am. But when the truck breaks down at another dealership within a very short period of time and all this crap is reported to tech hotline, dealerships get caught. Or if the truck was at another dealership before yours and they reported it. You never know exactly what the last dealership or tech told Hotline. I have seen it happen at one of the last dealerships I worked at and the outcome is always an expensive charge back. Needless to say they were always under audit. Sorry to get a little off subject keith, but my point is that R.O's like this could be really bad in court. However, never ever take the reposnibnility of this kind of crap on your own shoulders. It can bite you really hard. At least with credibility, you will always be able to land a new job.