DwayneGorniak

I have replaced some engines for this concern due to the fact that it was like clay or as Hotline calls it "Pudding". Hotline says that when it has mixed to the extreme point of becoming pudding, it bakes to the sides of the cylinder water jackets from the extreme combustion chamber temperatures and will not flush out. Once it has baked itself to the sides of the jackets, it creates an insulating factor that will forever overheat the cylinders and turn the sleeves blue on the insides of the cylinders also burning piston rings. The only possible way to remove this baked on builup is to hot tank the engine block. Therefore replacement is the desired repair as per hotline. I always ask myself a question when I am doing a repair: What would I do if it were mine?

Welcome from here as well Bruno. Good to see another very knowledgable member. And by the way, all the ones I have apart are rusty. But up here we deal with extreme weather, alot of condensation, and some Idiots who drive these things for five minutes as commuters.

Is the high pressure reservoir Full before and empty after it stalls? What is base oil pressure before and after it stalls?

Every dealership I have worked at has had a 4x Torque multiplier. As Jim would say......Neener neener neener. However, it is mighty nice to have one when I need it. By the way, I use a really big pipe wrench to hold the flange.

Remember the old Chevy Targetmaster engines that were made in Mexico. Shitty cams, heads, etc. due to poor casting sand. I wonder if these black bombs come from the same casting plant. I used to joke around that ford brake rotors and chevy camshafts were made from the same metal. Now I think the black bomb is from the same material.

No shit hugh? He's the Jackass that was telling everyone including us to unplug Egr valves. We are under stage two audit right now because we are high in costs per repair. Example of why. 05' F550 gets a new long block due to grenaded. Two weaks later comes back Hydrolocked. Injector cups installed incorrectly and are cracked and when they rebuilt the heads they ran the tap threads right into the heads. Block is O.K. Replaced bothe heads. F.u.Q.e.R (That's now what I call F.Q.R's: broken fuckers)is leaking coolant from front of engine. Cracked cover. W.T.F? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif Will we ever win? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smhair.gif Anywho, I don't see things getting any better. We now have no reasons to deny warranty but we are supposed to get our cost down. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif At least I have good story's and they are not charging anything back.

See them up here quite a bit Keith. Be carefull though, like you said they are a mini boiler and I have seen them litteraly burn the coolant out of sick litres. Remember that burnt skunk piss smell that occurs when premium gold burns. Yeah, these do that pretty easily.

I'd say it's screwed Bruce. Pull the connector off and you will probably find oil in it. .18 to .24 is the spec. I see lots at .15v giving all kinds of driveability issues. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

I just talked to the IDS hotline yesterday about this. I had just hooked my personal IDS to the VMM and it noticed that the VMM was out of date. SO I hit the little Tick and it had a total brain fart. Downloaded a corrupt file and wiped out my whole Windows system. Thank God I backed up files. Anywho, after eight hours of reloading my whole laptop up again, I was chattin with the IDS hotline and asked them about the wireless icon and they said that it was to improve communications between the IDS and the VCM and also to cut down on the costs of replacing the broken USB cables. My system has repair order disabled and I prefer to punch things into OASIS manually because I don't always like the order that the IDS loads them into OASIS. Give them only what is important and get the flat rate job done faster. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif

How's your 126 reports right now Jim? We are under extreme warranty scrutiny. I predict numbers to rise. Can't deny warranty when the customers meet the maintenance guidelines.

What a bunch of freakin idiots. However, we now can stress the importance of changing the oil at 5000km's (3000miles in english) but ford will most likely come out with a bulletin to fuck that up as well. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif Never mind, Just read the bulletin and they already did in this letter.

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif Don't forget about early retirement either. I thinks I'm getting closer to that point in life where I am ready to move into the mountains with the travel trailer, build a good ole' moonshine still and forget about this crap. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif But then again, I've always been a sucker for punishment. Looks like a great TSB for training straight time apprentices.

There is an upgrade aftermarket pilot bearing/input shaft reapair kit that you can through TECKPACK FITZALL. The part number is KPBZ73HD. It is an awsome kit. Comes witha a new pilot bearing that is letterally twice the size of the that little piece of crap ford bearing, a nice thick speady sleave that repairs the shaft and a driver for the sleeve. We charge $70.00 Canadian for these. I guess that would be about $72.00 American now EHHH? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif I put one in on my own truck and they are a great kit. We sell them as an upgrade antime we do a clutch or have the tranny out for whatever reason. Never ever had one fail yet. Make sure you grease the bearing when you put it in. Try this: http://www.teckpak-fitzall.com/spgm.cfm?id=KPBZ73HD This one is for the 7.3l applications though. I am assuming that is what you may be talking about. I never have any problems with the newer 6.0L application ZF's. Oh yeah and it beats the shit out of the price of replacing an input shaft.

I have seen mushroomed injector tips and major engine failures that can cause this concern. Good luck. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

With a Cheque. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif Flat rate. And Jim is right. If you have a week story, you will have a week cheque. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Looks alot better than that other P.O.S they were using.

I have seen quite a few turbos over the years pukin oil myself. And no, they don't always smoke out the tailpipe.

I started out in the trade by buying a Craftsman master mechenic starter kit. I still have every single tool of that kit in my box to this day. Over the years I have bought alot of Snapon tools off the truck and from the pawn shop whenever I can. Anything off the truck is usually a specialty tool. I have also bought Westward tools and the Canadian tire Professional Series wrenches that Jim mentioned. My Dad had tons of Westward tools on the farm and still has them all. I keep the Canadian tire wrenches at home now because the open ends suck. They spread more than a cheap whore on a street corner with a dyin urge for a fix. Out of all the wrenches and basic hand tools, I prefer the Craftsman. Some people will argue till they are blue in the face that Snapon wrenches are the absolute best and nothing compares to them. Bahhh Humbug. I cannot stand the feel of my snapon metric wrenches in my hands when they are full of diesel oil and I can't grip them anymore. I love my Craftsman wrenches. When they are covered in oil, I can still hang on to them. And don't go thinking that I leave my tools oily and dirty. I am extremely anal about cleanliness and proper care of my tools. I can put the open end of my Craftsman wrenches on a nut or bolt and smack the hell out of the other end with a hammer and never spread a wrench. And I have yet to this day ever had to replace one of my Craftsman wrenches. However, My Snapon Metrics are nice and thin in the heads. But so are my KD Gearwrenches. And if KD Gearwrenches would have been out before I bought my Snapon metric wrenches, I might not have ever bought the Snapon wrenches. But then again I paid only ten dollars at the pawn shop for the whole metric set. I still push apprentices to go to Sears and buy Craftsman master kits to start out with. Alot of the apprentices over the years have done just that and still have them all. You cannot beat the Unconditional Lifetime Warranty and the price. Just my /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif P.S: You can't beat a Snapon box though. I've had cheapies and Mac.

Nice. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif How much Jim? And if it is too big to be used as a boroscope, what will you use it for? Our shop has that old piece of rotunda Boroscope that is just way too big to be usefull.

Condemn the Bitch! (Cost Cap) You don't need this thing coming back and biting you in the ass.

Unbelievable Nathan. Hacks like that should have their licences pulled and the Service manager should have a set of cohoney's to deal with it. I agree with Jim. Find another dealership. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Look at this Monster you have created keith. A total network society workin like a well oiled machine. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

I think I would be inclined to call a known good diesel injection rebuilder depot to see if you can get one. Or see if you can get one off a wrecker unit.

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif Well, I am glad I am not the only frickin one. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif I feel for ya. How did the fuel look coming out of the fuel test port? I use my fuel pressure guage with a clear line on the end for bleeding and on a cople of pump failures, I have found major amounts of silver filings coming out of the system. I had one where Hotline made me replace every line in the circuit from the sencondary filter housing to the high pressure pump and then back to the sencondary housing due to the extreme contamination. It Was fine after that. Root cause of the concern: Jackass engineers still havn't changed that stupid little mushroom cap on top of the rear (after axle) tank. Still the same problem we have had since 1999 with these tanks. Suck water in from the top of the tank. Anyway Keith, yours sounds interesting. Good luck and may the force be with you.

I don't know how I missed this post. Oh, wait a minute. I was on hollidays pulling my 28 foot beer fridge behind my trusty ole' 7.3L. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif Allright, you didn't hear this O.K. But I must say that the early 03' and early built 04's are the better of sicko's. Once they had new injectors and a few updates they were actually not all that bad. Especially the early 04's with the 03' engine that did not get the 06E17 recall. But, I did not say that! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif