Jeff_E

It just means Rex is your peer now You're still a good person though, so you have that going for ya.

How about unplug the field coil and replace pulley as necessary?

For those who may not have gotten that joke: Urban Dictionary definition of "DP"

Maybe the fan clutch getting wet and shorting VREF. I think there was even be a tsb on it, though it may have been for the 6.0's

As far as the coolant issue - If you had a cracked cup you would likely see fuel in the cooling system. Since you're seeing oil, I would ask the customer about their oil cooler replacements. Sometimes there is a rough casting in the oil filter header where the oil cooler o-rings are supposed to seal... I've seen a brand new in the box filter header that had a sealing surface that was worse than the old one. I would also ask if they have used the anti-cavitation additive every time they replaced the coolant. If not, they could have a really ugly situation. #8 is supposed to have a different perdel reading for the long lead injector that goes in that hole to prevent cackle. You did install a LL injector there right? Alliant or Ford replacement injectors only right? How many miles on the other 6 injectors? Did it run perfect for a little while after inj replacement, or was it always rough running? You're probably going to have to ask the customer for more diag time because I have a feeling you're going to be doing things that involve fuel pressure and compression gauges in the near future. Do you have an injector kill box at your dealer to see for sure which cylinder is being pissy? If so, it might be worth the time to rotate the crank until that piston is at the bottom of it's stroke with valves closed and then pressurize that one through the glow plug hole to see if either the cooling or fuel systems start to bubble - especially given the history of cooling system concerns it has had. Oh yeah, and maybe try a known good cam sensor just for giggles.

I rather enjoyed it. Then again, I have a pretty sick sense of humor and often troll around Rex's site to satisfy it.

Ouch! bitten by the old flex plate spacer. If it makes you feel any better, I forgot the bell housing spacer in a 5.4 Navigator recently... Not fun to fix on flat rate.

Cetane, do you get to drive any 6.2 Super Duties? Any idea what kind of mileage they get???

Do you believe it was customer abuse? Can you prove it? I find it weird that Ford Motor Company wants a technician at privately owned Ford Franchise to fill out paperwork to void a Ford Motor Company warranty? Tell them to grow some balls and do it themselves if thats what they want. I'd be really leery about opening up my dealership to any liability like that. If Ford wants to void that warranty they don't need your help. I've been down that road, all it does is give the customer another party to sue... One with a lot fewer lawyers than FoMoCo. Luckily my dealer won our similar case, but it wasn't a cheap ordeal for the dealership.

This crowd generally frowns upon defeating emissions components or aftermarket tunes. But personally I'm a believer in ARP head studs and the 3C3Z-9T517-AG fuel pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure and keep the injectors alive.

Mike, Are you saying the pressure bleeds down once the pump is shut off? Or are you saying the fuel empties in the secondary filter housing once the pump is shut off? None of these will hold any pressure once the pump shuts off, but the filter housing shouldn't empty if that's what you're asking. If the filter housing actually empties I'd prolly throw a HFCM at it and see if it sticks. Good luck!

Oh Aaron I'm so sorry. I cant even imagine what you must be feeling right now. I'm always here if you need to talk.

What level is he at??? I'm at 283 with 99 mafia. I've mastered all New York job tiers and I'm working on Bangkok now.

Well I guess you're all confused too, that's ok it's fixed. AFTERMARKET WIRING which was T'd into his VSS ckt for his nav system fell behind the engine and melted to the up pipe. It was picking up interference from the spinning turbo's and messing up the VSS signal to the pcm. Is it beer:30 yet?

Actually I'm still hovering around the normal level of barely tolerable suck, nothing better or worse. What happened Aaron?

Hey guy, I've been fighting one for a couple days with hotline and it seems all they end up doing is helping me load the parts cannon with the wrong parts. This 08 F450 6.4 pickup has a problem with the speedometer intermittently going nuts. When it happens, it is usually while driving, but it did it once for me parked at idle. When it happens the VSS pid goes nuts. VSS is an output of the ABS module based on rear axle and front wheel speed sensor readings. I monitored the pids for those input sensors and they seemed ok when the concern happens, but the rear diff signal had a slight glitche once in a while so I replaced the Diff speed sensor - no change. Hotline had me drive the truck with the wiper motor disconnected - no change, and the 4x4 module disconnected - no change. We then thought that since VSS originates in the ABS module, and the VSS pid goes freaky when it's inputs are ok that it may be the ABS module... NOPE. So we now have it narrowed down to either the cluster causing feedback through the VSS wiring, or the PCM, or RFI, or a harness issue. I'm wondering if any of you have had this before and if so what fixed it. Thanks in advance, ~Jeff

Yes it will. Make sure you can get the EGR temp sensor A loose before you order parts... You may end up putting a new right up pipe in it if it doesn't come out in one piece.

Open circuit voltage testing

Well guys I just got back from school and I thought I'd give you a heads up on something. Some of the lines on the 6.7 that need to be disconnected for turbo removal ect require the GM style Jiffy-Tite disconnect tools. I had never even heard of them until yesterday but Ford will not be providing them in any ESST kits because they are apparently a common tool available anywhere. I ordered mine from toolsource.com but there are other places to get them. They come in two styles which are pictured below. I ordered the (upper picture) style made by Snyder Manufacturing... They cost a little more, but they look like they can fit into tighter spaces than the lower (Lisle) ones. I'd hate to see any of you get one of these trucks in for service before you even knew which tools you need to buy. Keith, I didn't know whether to put this here or in the tools section so feel free to move it if you like.

My guess would be you're sucking air. I found a few threads describing similar concerns that may help. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=10543#Post10543 http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2636#Post2636 http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2606#Post2606

Escape grilles separate from the bumper cover and don't need the bumper cover to be removed for the repair. Mariners have a grille permanently attached to the bumper cover and thus the bumper cover must be removed.

That's usually the root cause^^^^^^^^

Assuming you're seeing Red fluid... PTO fluid isn't red so if you're seeing red fluid from the outer dust seal (the only visible seal) where the axle shaft disappears into the pto, then yes. That axle shaft slides through SEVERAL seals. The one you can see is actually just a dust seal. behind that is a PTO fluid seal, behind that is another PTO fluid seal, Behind that is the seal you need YL8W-7H429-AA(or supersession thereof), behind that is a seal in the transmission which you should probably also replace for good measure. It seems this specific trans fluid seal (in the PTO) is sensitive to removal and installation of the RF axle shaft, though some of these decide to leak just because. If all you do is replace that outer dust seal you're not fixing anything that has to do with a red fluid leak. The PTO needs to come out and the little seal needs to be pounded out the back and replaced.

I've done a couple of these and they aren't fun. If it's leaking RED fluid it's not actually the PTO that's leaking, but rather tranny fluid leaking through it from a failed seal #YL8W-7H429-AA There is an outer dust seal and plastic cap on the outside of the pto that you will probably also need to replace, but the one that's actually leaking is in the back side of the pto (trans side) and you must remove the pto from the vehicle and pound it out the back. Of coure the PTO removal will require removal of the alternator and rear exhaust manifold in order to accomplish this. Have fun

Is it what's left of a mouse?