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What's In Your Bay - Part V

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Keith Browning

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2 broken manifold studs on the front right of a 4.6 3v explorer. Got both them out with the MIG but not without trouble, very hard to get the gun in there and see what you're doing. This ain't in my bay either, they had one of the younger guys start it but I ended up just finishing it.

Try welding a 3/8 nut to it. By the time you get the nut filled you get tons of heat into the stud.
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Nice, I haven't worked on a van 6.0 in a while.Had an interesting one today. Ever wonder what would happen to a 6.0 if it had 2 batteries but they weren't hooked to each other? Had me scratching my head for about 10 minutes. The right side will charge and start the veh but the left is needed for veh power and will eventually deplete itself.

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Wish I hadn't worked on a e series lately put 8 injectors and cleaned the turbo. Forgot how bad I hate those. It had been 4 years since the last one I did don't care to do another

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Last week I replaced all the steel brake lines on an '01 Chevy Silverado. For those who don't already know GM sells a pre-bent brake line kit for these that includes all the lines except the one that run across the rear axle. There is also a step by step TSB on replacement.

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I finished up my first 6.7 fuel system today on a 12 F-350. One of my better fleet customers that's constantly plagued by fuel problems. I also put an EGR cooler core in it and upsold the turbo fittings. I did change the fuel cooler and the frame rail pump in addition to the kit.

 

My first impressions are not too bad. It's a lot of work but I wouldn't consider pulling the cab like I've heard about. The injector lines are hard to torque but it's not impossible. I had a little trouble lining up the marks on the cam and HPFP gear but atleast getting the pump out isn't hard.

 

Next week got a set of 6.0 headgaskets and another F-550 bucket truck to look at.

 

Oh wait....that's this week

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http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/gallery/image/1845-ya1140-c/

 

I really like these. Makes torquing much easier. They bottom out on the nut to prevent any injector return nipple damage. They work on the dmax also. Just finished another dmax fuel system Thursday. I think they are worth the price.

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I used a regular crowfoot and a 4" extension but I was sweating the whole time.  Much care has to be taken to not damage the injector.  I had no trouble with the right side having the cooler out of the way.  The left side was a little tight. 

 

I will order that socket set for sure.  Any more I have so many tools a few more won't hurt.

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Got this 2003 7.3 bucket truck in here, noticed it has some oil in the degas bottle. Not much but it's just starting.

 

Is that usually the oil cooler? Could it ever be an injector cup? I remember one truck a long time ago that was volcanoing oil from the degas from a cup that split wide open.

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I am going to pull the cooler right now and check the o-rings and end caps.

 

Update, the end caps are fine, no corrosion at all. The o-rings are hard but not eaten away too bad. The caps did separate pretty easily from the cooler so maybe they were leaking. I don't know really. It's getting a cooler and some new o-rings and we'll see if it fixes it. This damn truck is a beast. One of a few so far that has maxed out my 18k

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Nice, I haven't worked on a van 6.0 in a while.Had an interesting one today. Ever wonder what would happen to a 6.0 if it had 2 batteries but they weren't hooked to each other? Had me scratching my head for about 10 minutes. The right side will charge and start the veh but the left is needed for veh power and will eventually deplete itself.

Matt what do you mean not hooked to each other, did they not have the cables hooked up on one batterie? Could you explain what you found, I had a quit look at one that is doing the same thing.
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The battery terminals had long since corroded away so what these guys do is cut the terminals out, put lead terminals in and put lugs on all the original cables. Instead of having one long positive cable it may be cut into a few sections.Another dealer down the road a little ways just dropped a complete engine in this truck and when they hooked the batteries back up they left the positive cable that runs from right to left unhooked, it was kinda tucked down behind the washer bottle. The truck made it about 25 miles before the left battery depleted from not being charged.

 

and off topic.... I'm completely pissed they dropped 17k into this truck at another dealer.  I've saved this companies ass more than a few times on their fleet of shitty oil field trash 6.0s and they put the truck at another dealer only to have it towed to me right after they picked it up. :mad: I really don't understand people.  This would be the second time this has happened with this fleet too.

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I thought batteries on diesel trucks were supposed to be connected parallel anyways. Why wouldn't they have opted to replace the whole 14300 cable? Last time I checked, the price isn't really that bad.

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Had a 6.0 box ambulance towed in today.  Shut off driving down the road after it puked a bunch of oil out. Verified no base oil pressure and the upper oil pan is cracked and separated from the bedplate. 

 

They said they didn't hear anything.  :haha2:

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I got a 6.0 in a f-series that we suspect has a loose crank trigger wheel. It starts bucking if and when it wants to. Ficm sync starts switching back and forth between yes and no. Let off the throttle and it clears up. I missed it on the timing tool, but the pattern shows it's a half tooth off on the crank. Guy don't wanna spend the money to fix it right now.

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http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/gallery/image/1845-ya1140-c/I really like these. Makes torquing much easier. They bottom out on the nut to prevent any injector return nipple damage. They work on the dmax also. Just finished another dmax fuel system Thursday. I think they are worth the price.

 

How do yours fit on the line nuts? I bought a set and I just about had to pound it on the nut. My Snap-on dealer is gonna get me another set to see if they fit better.

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Well I have a brand new 2015 F-450 that was picked up from here for a dealer trade. Guy picked up the truck and filled it with gas and drove till it quit. Gave them a estimate, other dealer declined and is having our wrecker tow it back to their shop for them to do the repairs. How do I brand the VIN# is OASIS to have the warranty canceled until they fix it?

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In the warranty policy manual.  Section 4 page 12, there is a form for warranty status change request.  They don't call me the "Anti-Mod" around here for nothing!

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I've got a 2013 GMC Acadia in my bay now that has extensive rodent damage. So far I have all the seats, console, trim panels and carpet out of it. Working on the dash now. This is nasty! Looking for wiring harness damage. 

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