cbriggs Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 OUCH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 I concur, that is some major damage the likes of which I've never seen personally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Is that supposed to look like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Looks like they installed a piston and valve Delete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Kinda wonder why they installed the delete in the first place. You'd be surprised how many people think that's gonna solve all their 6.4 problems. Last I checked it won't fix an overfueling injector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Also I pulled a good one this morning, changing a shifter in an 08 super duty for a tow haul button inop. Snapped the damn bolt off in the new shifter. It was all the way in too so the bolt was sticking out the back a little keeping the shifter loose but not able to pull out. Man that was a nightmare. Had to drill it from the back with a mirror.Once it was out I was able to drill and helicoil. No way that bolt was coming out. <sigh> What? You couldn't weld a nut onto the broken bolt and back it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Hey now, be nice, I'm learning. I just bought a drill doctor too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy_M Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Been a crummy past few days. Wife's 99 has been pushing fuel into the cooling system for a Lil while lately. Finally got parts to replace all cups, seals, and glow plugs. Didn't realize it until I was barring it over after having the new sleeves and injectors back in place that the glow plug tip broke and fell into #7 hole. Spent 5 hours with a borescope and magnet trying to fish, finally gave up and pulled the head tonite. Now waiting for a gasket to show up to finish it and be done until I want to tackle the delayed reverse engagement issue on it(which could be a while now after this mess) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 11 E-series shuttle bus with 144k replacing valve seals and up-sold manifold studs on one side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 oh how I do not miss working on E-vans! I actually have empty stalls currently(A first for a long time), but no lack of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 oh how I do not miss working on E-vans! AMEN TO THAT BROTHER!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I just drilled an up-pipe bolt out of the back of a 6.4 turbo, cab off of course. Those stainless bolts are rock hard, that's the first 6.4 anything I've tried to drill. Saved the original treads but it took me more time and bits than I'd like to admit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Matt I have had to drill those hardened SS 6.4 bolts. Mine was on a broken exhaust manifold bolt, I was going through several bits new and re-sharpened, then the owner of the truck came out and drilled it in like 2 minutes with one bit. In my defense the owner has a big machine/fab shop.I learned a valuable lesson about feed pressure and drill speed. On SS the bit has to bite every turn or you are just surface hardening. I have since invested in norseman moly bits and boelube. I also have some carbide tipped bits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 The 1/8" bits that I drilled the initial hole gave me the most trouble. I had 2 new RMT cobalt bits that wouldn't drill worth a shit, then I went through 2 Norseman moly bits that worked a little better. The funny thing was when the bits stopped drilling they still looked good and I'm sure they'd still drill through a softer metal just fine. They'd cut for about 10 seconds and just stop. Once I stepped up to bigger bits they went right in. I was using tap magic as a lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_twig_187 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 I have a F-750 with an abs light on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 I tried tap magic on the first one I did, I found that for me it did not work that well. Here is how the use of a cutting compound was explained to me....depending on the material being drilled the lube can cause the surface to not get warm enough to get a good bite/cut. Now when it comes to tapping or chasing a hole my thinking is heat is not your friend.(just my opinion & I know how "Opinions" can be ) If the bigger bit had a had a flatter angle then the 1/8" bits that could explain the way they worked. I know the small bits I had re-sharpened worked better then new because the guy I had sharpen them changed the angle. I am not sure what he changed the angle to, I pay him to sharpen them since machining is not really my skill set. Here is an interesting article I came across http://www.gun-tests.com/special_reports/accessories/american-gunsmith-tools-techniques-drill-bit-machining1430-1.html#.VMptFp3nbIU 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 My rear wiper is not cleaning the glass like it used to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 Looks like the thumb is up just in case the owner needs a ride....more kid friendly then the middle finger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 I get to put air bag helper bags in the rear of a 15 F-350. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted January 31, 2015 Share Posted January 31, 2015 - 2011 F350, dash is coming out for a binding mode door. no defrost. - 2014 Escape 1.6. came in for crank no start at 5000 km, got it to run with plugs and an oil change (oil twice overfull and fuel diluted). driveability on this one is making me pull my hair out. - 2014 E450, body builders made a mess of the service body electrical and it took out the non-serviceable park lamp relay in the SJB. getting a new fuse box and redoing the wiring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I just drilled an up-pipe bolt out of the back of a 6.4 turbo, cab off of course. Those stainless bolts are rock hard, that's the first 6.4 anything I've tried to drill. Saved the original treads but it took me more time and bits than I'd like to admit. You could have used one of these:http://beydlercnc.com/csb-005-f-6-4-turbo-up-pipe-gasket-6n640/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Oh believe me, I saw that when it came out and thought about it the entire time I drilled. I even tried to make a guide out of an old u-pipe flange but the bolt hole is just too loose. This is the first one I've ever broken off in a high pressure turbo, I know if I buy the guide it will be the last one too Right now I'm in the middle of fuel lines and a water valve in an 03 E-350. Didn't quite make the list for my top 10 favorite jobs 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 2012 6.7 with 59k crank no start. P2291 Followed pinpoint test. Removed vcv and got metal in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Here is what I have in the morning. Allison with a cracked bell housing pretty much all the way around and broken engine flywheel housing. Pan has a huge dent and the driveline has all new u joints and center support bearing. I replaced the flywheel housing, bell housing, and pan on this same truck 30,000 miles ago from impact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Looked an 08 F-550 6.4 today. Needs front axle u-joints, entire drag link, trac bar balljoint and bushing, rear brakes, primary belt tensioner, oil dipstick tube and thermostats. All the same shit as when I looked at it one year and 20k miles ago!!! Only this time the DPF is clogged because it won't heat up and the wif light is on. It definitely sucked in some water, multiple contribution codes and wacked out fuel trims. Fucking gas well trash, this truck looks like it hasn't seen a dry road since the last time it left. Oh well, I'll write a $10k estimate on it. Hell someone already dumped a 6007 in it at one point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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