Brad Clayton Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I have never bought shop support items, nor will I ever. Fuckin dealer makes millions of dollars every year, they can buy what we need to support their beach front property. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Tony your way to much of a nice guy. They really should pay all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Man the amount of tools I buy that I shouldn't is astronomical. Set up that 10.5 yesterday with all the essential pinion shim tools I now own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 I printed a receipt off amazon and gave to my manager today. I am pretty sure he is going to pay me back all of it. I make them enough $ they can buy the tools to make it easier for me. I just got sick of the maybe next month we well order that. So I ordered myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 This 6.0 truck I was working on has a pump over passenger side valve cover. The upfitter had cut the heater hose that goes along the alt and added hose to it to put over the alt and along the pump. There is no room for a clamp at the front cover. It appears they had rotated the hose tightened the clamp the rotated the hose to place the clamp to the back under the intake. Obviously that doesn't work real well because the clamp is not tight enough and no way to tighten it. Here is the solution I came up with. I am real happy with how it turned out. I used a small universal cv boot clamp and crimped the hose on. As you can see in the second picture any placement of normal clamp touches the alt belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Getting beat by a hot no-start in an 07 F-250. 87k miles. This thing has no warranty history and from what I can tell by looking under the hood no one has ever touched it. Easy right? Has original dummy plugs and STC. First air check cold left me checking under the right valve cover because I thought I heard an air leak. Original standpipe and dummy plug, nothing wrong with either one. So I put it back together and feeling pretty stupid I start over and figure I should probably verify the concern. That's when I knew it was going to be a problem, hottest I could get EOT was about 190°F and it wasn't even enough to get it to no-start. It still cranked and fired well within a normal amount of time and if I wasn't watching ICP I wouldn't know anything was wrong... but there is something wrong. A quick shut off and restart showed nothing, but the longer I let it sit after shut off the longer it took ICP to build. I let it sit for about 5 minutes one time and the subsequent restart had my IPR pegged at 85% before ICP started to build, which it did and it started. So another air check, this time hot, still can't hear anything that tells me where I need to go. I let it cool off over night and went in today to check the remaining shit. Off with the left valvecover, like the right side nothing is worn, no leaks heard. The dummy lower o-ring is just starting to wear, not enough to cause anything. So I pull the turbo and pump cover because I can still hear something in the rear of the engine, What I find is the STC still intact and my air leak is not anything I can tell where it's coming from. The only thing I can feel is a little air coming from the IPR dump port. I actually air checked the pump thru the original STC on the bench while rotating the gear and nothing. Air checked the rest of the system directly off the branch tube with my home-made adapter, nothing. No direction to go other than the original STC is a little loose, looser than most that I find and change as preventative maintenance. But the o-ring is fully intact. So I need a game plan and I feel that is going to involve working on a Sunday because I can't afford to get beat by this thing all next week. Got a 6.4 HPFP lined up for Monday and a 6.7 6007 that will arrive on Wednesday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 How's your base oil pressure/flow when it's hot, I wonder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I don't know, it concerns me that the no start hot is exaggerated by the time it sits after it is shut off, like there is a drain back issue. The plan for today is to go back together with a new fitting and my tester IPR. I need to pull the rails and physically check the lower standpipe o-rings too. Then I'm getting out my 6.0 diagnostic dice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Remove the oil filter cap when air testing, if you have air coming out the filter housing I would say your high pump is no good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Yeah no air from the oil filter housing. Also the cap and filter are OEM. Oil looks fresh and no signs of lack of maintenance under the valvecovers. All the injector top d-rings are intact as are the standpipe d-rings. If the STC doesn't fix it I'm going to condemn the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 30 miles on this pig. Got all the air out of the oil rails. Starts like a champ, IPR settles right down to 22-23%. So what actually fixed it? I'm going with STC even though it was fully intact. If it cold starts good tomorrow I'm going to be happy.......well maybe not "happy" but satisfied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I still have the original STC fitting in my 2007 truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 Surprisingly a lot of people do. I always check during a headgasket or cooler repair. That was the first thing I replaced on my truck. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.I'll leave this here too. The STC I welded up to make an air check adapter. All you need is a cast steel 1/4" female NPT fitting and an old STC fitting. I used this to air check the pump on the bench too using a modified turbo feed gasket. Full fielded the IPR and bolted the adapter to the old STC with a couple longer M6 bolts. I don't know realistically how useful bench testing a pump is but I did it. It was interesting to see how much air bled out of the IPR dump even with the valve fully shut. Not much but enough to give you a false air leak. Both IPRs I tested acted the same way. I did not have any air leak out of the HPOP feed hole either. I made that tool years ago but only ever had to use it a handful of times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 - 2011 Crown Vic for rear end bearings and clutch packs - 2014 Fiesta, 5-speed, for second gear and synchros - remote starters like it's going out of style (Christmas and all) - 2012 F150 5.0 for no compression on #5 and #7, exhaust valves are shot, catalyst shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 The transmission I have been waiting for over a month for finally showed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 99 F150 heater core which requires a dash pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 99 F150 heater core which requires a dash pull I much rather do a '99 F-Series heater core then a '99 Jeep grand Cherokee(last weeks job) but there was no way I could get out of doing the Jeep, it's owned by the person that does all my trim carpentry(he does dang good work)One of this weeks jobs was '12 6.7 battery light on codes P0620 and P0625. Also had a spread terminal on the alternator connector middle pin but that was probably caused when the customer put a alternator on and it didn't fix the battery light. The original problem was the wires in the picture, GENCOM wire being smashed by the fatass battery cable. Looks like the GENMON wire is not far behind. Let just say it took a lot less time to diag then to run new duplex wire in those POS plastic retainers. Ford COP spring acts as a heat sink and also keeps the heat shrink from sliding down the wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I just changed the last black cam sensor know to man in a 2003 e-450 7.3. I can't believe this sensor made it 11 years, thats some kind of record. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Seen a bunch of problems with those battery harnesses. Even had one rub through on the right frame and catch fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Seen a bunch of problems with those battery harnesses. Even had one rub through on the right frame and catch fire.Do you know if the new/updated part number is redesigned to keep that from happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Leon what trans were you waiting for? I just waited over 3 weeks for a 5r55 ranger trans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 I didn't notice the new one being much different from the old one. What I did was take a roll of the escape recall harness tape and added some extra padding in a few spots. The old harness was heavily soiled in salt and road debris and I believe that was a factor, the new one didn't touch the frame and most I've seen don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Leon what trans were you waiting for? I just waited over 3 weeks for a 5r55 ranger trans. Torqueshift for a 2010 F350. Apparently there was a North America wide back order on torque converters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Did 2 black cam sensor last week it's been awhile... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Took a look at a 6.4 today with a P120F in memory. This thing was derated bad with that code. Pinpoint test M has you looking at the FRP, no concerns found so I put a sensor and UVC harness in it. Noticed my fuel trims looked a little off so I pulled a sample from the #1 injector. Metal. Put the thing back together, drained the fuel from the high pressure bleed tool into a clean container. Even more metal. It's one of my good fleet customers and they're planning on keeping the truck at least another year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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