Matt Saunoras Posted August 28, 2014 Share Posted August 28, 2014 Doing a high pressure pump in an 03 6.0 F-550 dump. No start, sawtooth ICP. The 6.7 that caught fire was the main battery cable harness rubbed through on the frame. Below the right side battery the cable drops down, attaches to a bracket on the frame and runs down the saddle to where it splits off to the starter/across the front of the engine. Quite a large area rubbed through on the saddle and was shorting out. This is a plow truck with over 100k on the clock, salt was falling out on me the whole time which made it quite a nightmare of a job. Nothing.... and I mean nothing came apart and went together without a fight, it almost pushed me over the edge, something as simple as a battery cable. The one transit bus with fuel in the coolant is leaving, no authorization. I'm going to offer to get them a set of heads and a few other parts on the side to try and help sell the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Yesterday I was worried this customer would never return after they declined the fuel in the coolant job. There's another one on it's way too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 A bus pass does NOT make a great gift. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 '03 5.4 2valve - two broken exhaust manifold studs. I got to use my new welder(Miller Maxstar 150 S) and BigWalt's tip about using a flat chisel on an air hammer to knock the studs loose before trying to remove them. They both worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 My TIG will do stick welding but I've never tried it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 My TIG will do stick welding but I've never tried it I have never used a TIG welder but I will say I prefer my new welder(for extractions) over the MIG welders I have used. One I am able to set it up within minutes,I can stand all the way back in the fender well and I don't have to look around my welding head,I can also bend the rod if I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Interesting. I wish I had some free time so I could try it. What rod are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 7018 1/8" but I am going to swap some of them for some 6011 rods. When first borrowed one of these little suite case welders I think I used a 6011 rod, what ever rod it was had less splatter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I have some 7018 rod I found in the old shop but no idea how old it is or how much moisture it's absorbed. Would it be any good without drying it first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I am finding out that the 7018 rods should be kept in an oven(even though nobody that I know does), that may be the causing the splatter problem with the one's I have. Since I am just using them for extractions and not structural welding they will be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 30, 2014 Author Share Posted August 30, 2014 Just an observation for you all to digest - while this topic is interesting there are MANY posts in here that would make great threads/topics of their own where they could be discussed more in-depth and make them easier to find and search for. The last several posts on using a welder on broken studs for example... and there are many others buried in here. Just saying. Carry on Gents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Keith if you ever want me to elaborate or you have an idea for a useful new thread please just shoot me a message(I will take pictures of anything ) We can do a new one for welding broken fasteners I need to shoot some pics on the next one though.I tend to hide all my info in here because I'd just as soon assume everyone has seen all the stuff I'm fixing.Here's another find I had today on one of these buses. Had a map/baro correlation, boost not detected - mechanical, underboost and EBP circuit code in it. Found my map port clogged but that didn't explain the EBP code. Customer already put a new sensor and tube on it as you can see. EBP_V was reading fine in the bay until I removed the inlet duct off the turbo. Then all the sudden it's 3 volts koeo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Just an observation for you all to digest - while this topic is interesting there are MANY posts in here that would make great threads/topics of their own where they could be discussed more in-depth and make them easier to find and search for. The last several posts on using a welder on broken studs for example... and there are many others buried in here. Just saying. Carry on Gents. As an administrator can you just move the post?I would also like to add that I talked to one of the owners of the local welding shop, he is one of my bigger customers and he said that they do keep those 7018 rods in an oven when they are using them for structural welding. He also said that the 7018 rods are more picky about the distance they are held away from the weld, so I will be swapping some out for some 6011 rods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 As an administrator can you just move the post? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 I'm on 6.0 bus #5 today. This thing is a dead miss on #6 and #8. Neither injector clicks, 6 throws a low code and 8 throws a high. Plug in 2 known good injectors, both click now but the same DTCs are thrown. Go to swap in my tester FICM and I can smell the old one is cooked. Not going to sacrifice my tester on this thing so I grab the old FICM from the first bus I did. Plug the old injectors back in, #6 and #8 still don't click, now in addition to the other codes I have a #1 low code and #4 didn't click. Try to make rhyme and reason out of that and I draw a blank. Did the FICM sizzle the injectors or did the injectors sauté the FICM? #8 when plugged in caused the most erroneous circuit codes. #8 during one test threw a high and a low code which I don't think I've ever seen before with a good FICM. Plug in 2 good injectors and with the test FICM everything passes. #4 also sounds quieter than it did on all the other tests when it clicked. Told them it needs a FICM, 2 injectors and you better count on buying a harness. I have had too many harness problems and even though I couldn't locate an exact spot there was a misplaced intake manifold stud that was rubbing awfully close to the #8 injector wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted September 5, 2014 Share Posted September 5, 2014 I have a 6.4 complete fuel system going. Actually got prior aproval from ford under warranty. Has the normal worn out rocker arm tips also. Got a 5.4 3v reman sitting there when I get that done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 I have a 2013 Duramax in for a Turbo, and DEF tank heater. It has 300,000 miles on her. Then outside I have about 80 hours already approved and the repair orders keep piling up. My poor advisor is having a hard time with the needy SOB's who think we should drop everything to go put air in their tire for the fucking low tire light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 2011 F350 6.7L that getting a high pressure fuel system for a failed hp pump. Kicker is I removed 8 injectors and so far have only found 5 copper washers. One I managed to grab out of the cup by expanding my finger grabber thingy inside the washer hole and carefully remove it. I can also see one more down by a valve spring which I can't get at, and 3 others are missing. Off come the valve covers.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 I have lunch in my bay. Every day I do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Sorry I had to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 - 06 Lincoln 1/2 ton .... rear carrier & diff pin (locking bolt was broken inside), crown, pinion, bearings, clutch packs, all pads and rotors, l/front upper control arm, alignment - 13 3.5 1/2 ton ... front cover reseal - 12 3.5 1/2 ton ... right side exhaust manifold - 08 F350 6.4 high rail truck... both batteries, alternator, front u-joints - 11 F250 6.7 ... bad double cardan u-joint on the front prop shaft took out the transfer case - 12 Raptor ... steering gear, high pressure hose, both pinion seals - Ford school next week! Steering & Suspension - I have been waitlisted for nearly two years, though I did defer it once before. - bought a clean 05 Freestar, too. they hit the ditch to avoid a deer, kept the body perfect but broke an outer cv shaft. naturally she has gears but a definite lack of final drive. $300 : ) should keep me busy for a few days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 We haven't been too busy lately but I had a 14 F-550 6.7 giving me fits with reductant codes and being stuck in idle only mode. You don't think a brand new dump truck is going to have wiring problems but I learned that lesson. The first time it came in stuck in idle mode it had a few codes and I correctly grounded G400 and let it go with a new PCM. Now the TSB is out and I'm thinking thank God I don't have to go through this again. Wrong. I fixed 9 f-ing wires in a body harness near the rear of the cab that someone smashed the hell out of, piss poor soldered a few spots and wrapped the other damaged wires in electrical tape without even making a repair attempt. They managed to re-tape the harness well enough I didn't notice it right away. So I fix all that and on to TSB 14-0142. This TSB is supposed to make it possible to remove a 14 from idle only mode. Wrong again, it clearly doesn't work after attempting it at least 6 times amongst going back and forth with hotline. They had me blank path the PCM which also didn't work on the new one or the old one I replaced in the beginning of August. Both PCMs are now door stops. So a truck with 2000 miles on it now is on it's third PCM. I brought it home with me tonight so I can leave my 6.0 sit another night and see if it long cranks tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forddieseldoctor Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 Got to finally play with the new fluid evacuator for what I made them buy it for. Worked very nice. Didn't spill a drop. Wasn't quite as fast as I was hoping, but oh well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 I had to go in today and put a flexplate in my truck. If you ever decide to put a 6.4 starter into a 6.0 think about checking the current condition of the existing flexplate before proceeding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 I had to go in today and put a flexplate in my truck. If you ever decide to put a 6.4 starter into a 6.0 think about checking the current condition of the existing flexplate before proceeding. What exactly would be the benefit of installing a 6.4L starter in place of the existing 6.0L unit if you don't mind me asking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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