Brad Clayton Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Been a bit of a busy week for ol B-rad. Clockwise from bottom left: 64 with a cavitated front cover and leaking radiator. 67 with a wiped out turbo and bits in the intercooler. 64 with a pooched oil cooler with intermix in both directions (a real shit show). 64 with a bad right up-pipe. 60 with a ruptured egr cooler and 24 volt FICM. and last but not least a 64 (outside running) that I just replaced another oil cooler on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Need any help down there? I'm not sure how much longer I can take without being out of work. I seriously dread going in every day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Not good, this turbo isn't a year old yet and neither is the shortblock i put in this truck. But when you don't change your oil in 17k miles the all bets are off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 I think this person should also change their oil more often.'06 caddy STS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy57 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 You get new oil and filter with an engine. Come on now, you expect all this intensive maintenance to really be done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Sadly I believe that was the last time this truck had an oil change. It doesn't have an easy life either. 18' rollback F-550. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Just finished 2013 Taurus SHO 3.5 No oil change 27,000 miles, engine warranty cancelled at another dealer. Customer bought at auction not running. Original oil filter, got it to start, pumping oil into exhaust, both turbo impellers almost fell out of the housing. Loud bearing knock. Installed a used engine from a smashed up police Taurus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 This showed up today in an 11 F-450 with a P228F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Clutch in a freightliner. Sucked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 You work on Freightliners at Sean hyland motorsports? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Funny story. Yeah. But I don't work there anymore since there was some trouble getting my check cashed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amailloux Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Have a 2007 f150 in with bottles of 10 w-30 napa oil all over in the cab. Checked maintenance records and it is at 24,200 miles since last oil change. No cam phaser noise when I drove it in. At filter full of muck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YukonTyler Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 - 11 Ranger 4.0 for a bad catalyst and rear end clutch packs (don't see those too often) - 11 F250 6.2 with more mud than I have ever seen in my life. $7800 worth of parts and labour for pads, rotors, calipers, e-brake cables, tires, wheels, tpm sensors, inner fenders, battery, charcoal canister and vent relocation kit, bulbs, lamp housings, pigtails, brake switch, diag time and mud removal time. originally came in on the hook for only a no start (mud blocking the shifter from moving fully into park). it's an impressive truck. - 09 Crown Vic for a starter, rear trailing arms, rear brakes and a rear axle seal - 12 Fiesta for DPS6 clutch - 12 1/2 ton 6R80 torque converter (whining) - my 09 Rio for sway bar bushings : ) sounds like the front end is going to fall out of it - wife's 06 Rav4 for rear axle seals and replace r/rear seat belt (the dog is not in the good books) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 I found out that I could use BRC230RM & BRC231RM calipers in place of BRCF-198 & BRCF-199 on a 6.7L F-450 with a Dana 80 rear axle, WD did not have the BRCF's in stock. The caliper slide bolt boots that come with the remans are to small for the F-450 but mine were ok so that was no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_Kelsoe Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Got a V-10 in a 2012 bucket truck that came apart and made a big mess. Ended up breaking 5 rods, 4 piston, busted the block and oil pan, and scored both heads and cams. Customer just had serviced the truck when it shut down 1/2 mile from their shop. They towed to us, I got it jumped off and sent a helper to drive it not thinking the bottom end was damaged. It wasn't noisey when it left. I think someone forgot to add oil during that service, though they haven't admitted to it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Well at least they wrecked it good. No patching that together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 This thing has been a thorn in my side since I first started this fleet. It pulled some weird shit today and I think I'm going to start a new thread. I captured a decent screen shot but it doesn't explain why what happened did.Long story short what I captured was a long crank and after it started ran like shit, surging and running at a higher rpm than normal. What I found was IPR initially command to 85% and dropped to 60%. This resulted in ICP way too high for a smooth idle. I hurried up and shut it off and it restarted fine every time afterwards. It set a P2284 in continuous when this occurred. Every other restart resulted in a fairly low IPR, around 45%, which built ICP in plenty of time.I pulled the IPR which looked fine and put a known good ICP sensor in it. It also got a new FICM for some low voltage(I think this was their original cause for concern and I stumbled into something else) What I guess I need to find out is what dictates IPR duty cycle while cranking. And where that ICP code came from is beyond me, I didn't see anything at all in ICP_V that would have caused concern. The main engine harness is around 20k miles old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Got me a fun one today. 5.4 3 valve manifolds in a super duty. Only broke one stud off. I was going to try and do a write up but I couldn't seem to get good pics due to location. I'm not usually the guy who gets gasser manifolds but I sure do get to pull all the broken studs. After my SM saw how smoothly this one went things may change.....not in my favor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 What did you do, tig a piece on the broken stud and use a turbo socket to get it out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Nope just build it out using the MIG..... with C25 shielding gas of course I use Lincoln Superarc L-56 .030" wire and the machine hooked up to 220V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I don't miss them days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmantech Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Just finished a e-450 v-10 yesterday 10 broken deep in threads. Used our cheap mig no gas got a few out. Had to get a local welder to bring in his tig welder to do the ones behind the spring towers.I could not get ours in there was just to big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I do not quite know how to remove broken fasteners with the TIG yet. I'm positive it would be much more precise and yield better results if done correctly. My biggest thing is standing up while using the foot pedal. I wouldn't be comfortable using the remote start feature for a TIG. I have an 03 6.0 turbine housing here with a mounting bolt broken off very deep in the hole. I need to get this bolt out soon so I may try and take pics out in the light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buddy_M Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 I have the Miller Diversion 165, and their unit comes with controls on the torch assembly, or i can plug in a foot pedal if I ever buy one. My MIG is a Millermatic 211, and personally I'd rather use that one since only one hand is really needed, which is set up with C-25 and .035 wire, to build up and extract broken studs. Last job I did took me around 30-45 minutes start to finish to pull 14 broken studs from a V10. I'll build up the stud if needed, and weld a 3/8" nut onto the stud or weld build up and fill the center, wait about 30-45 seconds for cool down and heat travel, and spin it out with a wrench. I think it's just adding an extra step to weld a washer then weld the nut to the washer when it can be done in one step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 That's what my MIG is. Millermatic 211. Very nice machine, never had a problem with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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