Aaron

I was dealing in an environment where vehicles had mileage in the 40-45 thousand kilometer range, with the hour meters maxed out. For everyone's info - a pre-08 hour meter maxes out at 9999.9 hours. At which point an hourmeter gets installed in the dash.

Cool! (No pun, yadda...) You guys must go through a lot of bandsaw blades over there

Betcha if you bought 10 of 'em, they'd give you a discount, too.

GM Parts Direct? www.gmpartsdirect.com GM PART # 2071667 CATEGORY: Engine Air Cooling Fan Clutch PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00 GM LIST: $1,033.78 OUR PRICE: $612.83 Any better than the price you're getting?

So now it's 40 KM/hour of run time for us Canucks? They need to make up their mind, because they used to say 55KM - which was a far more reasonable number. Quote: To my knowledge Ford has not yet based warranty on hours - just mileage, It also states in the W&P manual update I have printed out on my toolbox that this is factored in when warranty is considered. I have been asked hours on vehicles several times when trying to get prior approval. I will get the number tomorrow and post it up.

Anything over not all cylinders at 100 percent is grounds for manual compression, in my opinion. I've seen a 6.0 say a cylinder is down 1-2%, and only have about 200psi of compression, where the rest of the cylinders were around 400. Last truck I had with a shitload of white smoke, it smelled like fuel too, but it had a completely fucked EGR cooler. Drill a small hole in the catalytic converter, something you can plug easily with a welder when you're done, and see what runs out. Coolant, oil, fuel, etc.

I've been having trouble getting a steel bracket - anyone got a spare they want to get rid of?

I did one not that long ago, charged R&R intake from Mitchell 8 hours, .2 to change the cooler, .8 to r&r and rebuild the oil cooler, and a bunch of other general misc crap. It needed a FICM too...I can't remember what all I did on it, but I quoted customer roughly 12 hours to do the whole works, and i gave him a bit of a good slice on it, since he had been jacked around pretty hard by another dealer (3 RETAIL EGR valves in 14 months, and charged him diag EVERY TIME, without bothering to check to see that the EOT was 44 degrees higher than coolant temp, and finally the EGR cooler puked and that's why I ended up with it.)

Might need a harness, check the harness between the takeout near the fuel filters and the cam sensor, they chafe up against the fuel lines and shit, I've seen that a lot. Same with the front intake bolt on that side, they crush the harness there quite frequently, also.

I just did one not that long ago. I used a sharp chisel, and hit the wear sleeve a couple times across the width of it. Then I used the edge of the chisel against the edge of the wear sleeve, and it started to turn on the crank. I kept tapping it around, and it slid off.

I think that every shop should have a real little guy to get out bolts an shit like that that the larger fellers can't reach.

Wow, surprised they didn't want you to put a trans case on that and transfer all the guts out of it.

Someone did a reflash without taking the FICM relay out

I'm not sure about this on the Fords, but on the GM stuff, the guts in the transmissions were rated differently...one for a V6, different one for Diesel, different for v8, small block, big block, etc. Just from a reliability standpoint

Warranty fan clutch or retail? Last one I did retail, mitchell manual said 2.4 or something like that. I'm getting really REALLY tired of checking something in mitchell, motor, and chilton and getting three different times. But congratulations on the beer. Is it good beer, at least? And send me a BC license plate, DAMMIT!

<satire> Nothing's wrong with that truck. That's the new 6.0 'Displacement On Demand' system at work to help save fuel. </satire>

Also a good point, Brad!

This is true...but if you're worried about it, why not check 'em both?

Works best on an E-series, because you're tapped directly into the back of the head that has the bubbling issue.

I built a little radio shack component box with a toggle switch as well as a momentary switch in it with a 9v battery in it with the leads coming out of it. The 9v battery also doesn't beat up the IPR as bad as the 12v does. Plug it in, flip the switch, close the IPR. Pretty slick little outfit, if I do say so myself. I'll post up pics on Monday.

I'm going to work it out later and see what it pays. Matter of fact, I think I'm going to start writing up and posting up the common failure jobs and the opcodes that you claim for them (EGR valve, CHRA, FICM, etc.) to make things easier for everyone so you don't have to look up 300 op codes, and spend an hour doing so so you can get paid. That is, if anyone's interested.

How'd that sound, Chris?

In our warranty and policy manual (Canada), it indicates that 1 hour is equal to 55 kilometers. Up North they asked hours on every warranty repair, and I have been making note of them on most of the vehicles I work on, merely from the fact that if it comes down to it, my ass is not on the line because the mileage and the hours is clearly stated on the workorder. Got in a pissing match with a service advisor regarding this. She tells me "IT'S NOT MY JOB" (my favorite line, EVER) "to tell the customer that the warranty is based on hours." Service Advisor. Service ADVISOR. SERVICE FUCKING ADVISOR. YOUR JOB IS TO ADVISE THE CUSTOMER OF HIS VEHICLE'S WARRANTY, OR ANY OTHER CONCERNS PRESENT WITH THE VEHICLE. Truck had 8000km's on it, and if I recall rightly somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 hours on it. I recommended fuel filters and an oil change, which the advisor refused to sell. I've been told fuel filters are recommended at 200 hours. At the mine, 6.4 trucks got a PM (oil and fuel filters) every 200 hours. 6.0 trucks, every 300 hours, if I remember rightly. I service my truck based on hours or mileage, whichever comes first. That's just my .02

And also:

31 hours?? can you post up your opcodes here just for future reference? Or are you M-timing the shit out of it?