Aaron

I've never actually heard it, but most of the cars I work on have aftermarket exhaust. The newer cars with the torsen axle have even louder exhaust in the Super Snake package than the older super snakes. It's borderline TOO loud with headers, high flow cats, and the borla straight through mufflers. They're like a dynomax race bullet, but louder. It's almost obscene. Pretty chatty at 7000 RPM on the dyno though.

We used to put Amsoil in the power steering systems, they liked that even less.

Last one I got was an 06, but I got it through LKQ, it came from Michigan. I actually BOUGHT it from the wrecking yard in Michigan, and they originally were gonna ship it to an LKQ yard in London (NO CHARGE!) for me to pick up to take to Windsor. They screwed it up shipping, and shipped it to Windsor for me no extra charge.I paid $4k for it, complete. FICM, turbo, the whole works. Even came with a downpipe. Only thing missing was FEAD and accessories, and starter.

I converted a customer's 2001 Cobra track car (5.0 Coyote, supercharged), to returnless fuel system, and did some fuel system plumbing, and assembled a 4.6 2v blower motor long block. Gotta slam covers on it tomorrow and strap it to the dyno. Dynoed a 2014 Super Snake conversion (725hp at the wheels), and a Z06 corvette track car at the end of the day today (435HP N/A) Dynoing the track car tomorrow to make sure the new fuel system is adequate, and then it's off to TMP for testing.

Lucas makes a good rear axle dope, combined with the Ford Friction Modifier I've had really good luck.

If you put the early style clutches in it, not the carbon fiber ones, the noise will likely go away. That's probably what happened with his buddy's car. The only way you'd be able to replace the clutches is if the car spun only one wheel in snow/ice/mud. Have you tried adding more friction modifier? The later model (13-up, if I recall rightly) went to a Torsen style locker in the rear end, I will double check at work tomorrow, this would be a permanent (albeit expensive) repair avenue.

Are all the F-series 6.0's pretty much out of warranty now?

I just put a turbocharger on one because the wheel(s) came off of it. 110k miles, truck is also on it's second engine. 2011 truck There is a TSB for replacing the exhaust valves for a rough run during regeneration condition as well.

You could eat it just like a sammich.

I figured I'd share this here, because, frankly, it rocks. You'll need: 1LB Bacon. 1LB GOOD ground beef (angus, sirloin, etc.) 1 Onion 1/2 cup ketchup/catsup Handful or two of shredded cheese 2 Eggs Chop the onion up into small pieces, and mix beef, eggs, onion, ketchup and cheese in a mixing bowl. Mash that shit together with your hands, don't be a wimp, get in there. Set that aside for a minute, we'll get back to it. Lay bacon across the meatloaf tray, perpendicular to the tray so the ends of the pieces of bacon hang out of the tray. Shape the meat into the bacon inside the pan, and then wrap the bacon over the top of the meat loaf. Put a plate over top of the tray, and turn the whole works over so it comes out on the plate, and the bacon is now wrapped around and tucked under the meatloaf. Lay bacon in the pan again, same as before, and then drop the loaf back into the pan, wrapping the bacon around the top like you did the first time. Lay the remaining bacon across the top of the loaf. Bake at 350 degrees until an internal temperature of 170-180 degrees is reached. Broil at 500 degrees until the bacon on top is crispy. Remove from oven, drain grease, and dump loaf out carefully. Re-insert into the pan upside down, and then broil again, until bacon is crispy. You can substitute BBQ sauce for ketchup if you like.

Also - when I lived north of the 60th parallel - Ford warranty didn't like it when you had to mix coolant stronger than 50/50... Hey, dingalings...it's colder than -40 here... LOL

You would think a guy fixing ambulances especially in house would do the shit right.

I would refuse to work like that. I did the work, you can pay me for it in a timely manner. Alex - I had a similar issue with a 6.0 - IDS logs showed the customer basically unplugged the fan and ran the vehicle with a phone book on the accelerator until it melted itself down, 4 days and 60 miles before it was out of warranty. I sent the freezeframe data that showed the fan RPM, fan circuit code(s), APP input of 30 percent, and 0MPH VSS. Their response was "It is unclear why APP loads are so high, please replace engine assembly and re-evaluate the APP system for faults". For those keeping score at home, it takes 27 minutes to get the oil temperature above 255 degrees on a 6.0 with the fan unhooked and partial throttle input. You can't tell me when the oil temperature goes out of range at 255 degrees, the gauge/warning light/de-rate doesn't happen. But like you said, legitimate claims get given a fine toothed comb.

(Don't take that the wrong way - I meant in regards to your comment about them being neglected)

I'm glad I'm not counting on one of those ambo's to get me to the hospital in an emergency.

They probably don't want us to know what the real failure is. Glow plug is damaged 'cause some shit was dancing around in there, and now thanks to Mr Morris, we know what I suppose it's better than changing all the exhaust valves in one head under warranty.

I've done a couple. They were GRAVY pay under warranty, espcially that "Remove the intake manifold" bit

They cannot legally debit you hours after you have already been paid for them Or was yours the shit story dealer that was making the techs wait until claims got paid before they got paid? Give me a shout tonight, Mike, anytime before about 10 or so.

Apparently there was a thunderstorm here last night, but I did not have a 40lb border collie friend shivering and shaking under the covers right next to me, so it must not have been that bad. I got up to throw a leak at about 0330 and it was calm out.

Put a McLeod dual disc clutch in a high ten second Boss 302 Mustang this morning, and did a rear gear swap, and put doors and fenders on a 70 Super Bee this afternoon to send it off to the body shop.

Hang a rod and piston in it and ship it?

Sooo... What's Ford telling you the fix is?

I like the jackstand because you can put it between the front crossmember and bellhousing and roll the truck around without worrying about a jack to roll along with the truck too.

Jackstand is my typical trans prop. Works mint.