Mikill

We are required to not only included the diag sheets but any tsb that is used must also be included with the test results written on it. Hotline requests, prior approval and anything related to the RO must be attached as well. Service manager said paper is cheap so print it out no matter how long it is.

I have been given those instructions since I started in this business. I follow everything the warranty clerk has told me to do since I started. All three of the warranty clerks I have had say I'm one of the best they have seen when it comes to documenting my diagnosis and repair procedures. I tend to write novels when it comes to warranty repairs because I try to cover everything and not give anyone a chance to hit me with the backflag but it still happens. I always rarely used m-time but when I did it wasn't much but still have to fight for it. I got tired of it and just stopped using it.

We were told one time that we couldn't claim m-time for spun cage nuts because if we followed the correct procedure the bolts will come out without spinning the cage nut. About three of us had m-time kicked back because of this. I pretty much don't claim m-time for anything anymore. If I have to install a part that doesn't have a labor op I usually just claim the labor ops for whatever I have to remove to get to r/r the part.

I have also had a 7.3 come in from an independent shop that just installed a pump and ipr for a no start. Two batteries later the truck was up and running fine.

Whenever you do a complete drop in they have the rear lifting bracket installed. That's where I got mine because they tell you to remove it because it will make a vibration from hell. That's where I also got the studs I use to remove and install cylinder heads from the block. I usually build the engine inside the chassis.

I think everyone says that after thier first shortblock repair on a 6.4. They are not fun but after a few you will have it done in no time.

I know I pull the cab everytime I pull an engine on a 6.0.

You say it smells like coolant and is low on coolant so I agree that I would be going after a coolant leak somewhere but I have been bitten by a turbo that leaked clear fluid out of the exhaust and had alot of white smoke. How that happened with the black oil in the pan I have no idea but I removed the crossover tube for the hp turbo and the compressor wheel had a large amount of play in it.

I know everytime I ask for a fuel pressure regulator the IPR valve pops up on the parts guys screen and away he goes pulling the IPR and then gets mad when I tell him it's the wrong part. Thankfully the other back counter guy made a note and now the correct part comes up.

At least you get paid every friday. Try getting paid a little check twice a month when it's slow.

What about the material that is stuck in the IPR? The hole isn't the reason the IPR is not functioning. What ever is stuck in the IPR is the reason the damn truck doesn't start.

I have had dummy plugs that are not fully blown out causing stalling concern as well as stc fittings that are not fully blown.

Cam and crank codes more than likely caused by the stalling. I would suggest look at the low pressure oil side first because of it taking awhile to build up and if it builds of fine while cranking then I would test the HP system. I have not had much experience on E-series but our shop has had alot of buses come thru with lifters coming apart and needing long block replacement.

Clean blue floor.

6.4L cab bolts are a pain in the ass!!! But with a little practice which I got alot of last month the cab isn't that bad to remove. I think that it is ridiculous to have to remove the cab for an oil cooler as well especially when they get charged back! I got used to removing cabs on 6.4's. I have removed more 6.4 cabs than 6.0 but only been working on diesels for two years now.

Are you serious? It's ridiculous to have to remove the oil pan to remove the oil cooler.

Got charged back an oil cooler on a 6.4. I replaced it when I replace the front cover and they said it was no longer necessary to replace the oil cooler anymore for that concern. No one in my shop knew of that change in repair info. I didn't see an SSM about it.

There are plugs that go into the oil manifolds on the Ford side as well. This week was the first hp oil leak concern I have had in awhile. They don't seem to come into our shop that often anymore. We get alot of 6.4's though.

Sounds like the classic stiction concern to me.

Shortblock repairs are common failures either from overfueling injectors or lifters coming apart. Then you have that EGT 13 sensor that likes to go out. High Pressure pump failures are becoming a common concern. Radiators are being done by the thousands. Not as easy as the 6.0 but they are common and straight forward.

Shortblocking a 6.4 is really not that bad after a few of them. I got it down to about two and half days. That's with cleaning and everything that goes with it. I'm by no means saying I like doing them or I'm a great tech but I just get my mind in the right frame and just do it. By the way the last 6.4 that came in the shop with a hole in the block also destroyed the upper and lower oil pan so they ended up putting a complete assembly in the truck.

That looks extremely crammed in that engine compartment. I guess they got smart and put everything that has failed on the two previous engine external but I'm sure the labor times on this engine won't be great. The 6.4 is sometimes a pain to work on but it sure has given my paycheck a boost the last two periods.

I would check the fan clutch after checking for any air restrictions in front.

I would check oil level. Maybe an injector line leaking. As for the regen issue, it's going to go into regen until it is finished. Usually 15 minutes is not long enough and it will keep going into regen unless he goes on a longer drive for it to finish which is why the message tells the driver "drive to clean exhaust filter".